I've been meaning to do this for awhile, finally got around to making a video with my wife's iPhone... Safariland claims the 7TS holster is impervious to heat, cold and water essentially and has sent it out to testers in a case of water with...
Thanks, micahSS . That is kind of what I was wondering about, since I use Glock 19s with extended barrels and weapon lights. So if I understand you correctly, you are recommending that I should use a Light Bearing Glock 17 7TS holster, if I have a light mounted on my Glock 19 with extended barrel, and just use a regular Glock 19 7TS holster, if I do not have the light mounted?
Originally Posted by Armyscoutman25: Slightly off topic, but I'm assuming the nub mod will not work with a hood? If it does where do I get one? That's what I gathered from the Nub thread a while ago. Plus, the Nub makes it easier to deactivate the ALS (it's also mentioned in the above video). Not something I necessarily want in a retention duty holster, but that's just me. And I love my 7360.
Originally Posted by DirtySanchez: Has anyone figured out how to make the light bearing model work with a DG switch? Thanks Bones, that's kind of what I figured. Dirty- I currently run a G22 on duty with a U-Boat and DG in a 7360. I had to dremel out the rear lip where the DG switch sits while holstered. If you look at that lip there is a significant chuck of plastic right in that spot so I didn't think it would ruin the integrity to remove some of it. The only downside I've come across is...
Originally Posted by 4track: Thanks, micahSS . That is kind of what I was wondering about, since I use Glock 19s with extended barrels and weapon lights. So if I understand you correctly, you are recommending that I should use a Light Bearing Glock 17 7TS holster, if I have a light mounted on my Glock 19 with extended barrel, and just use a regular Glock 19 7TS holster, if I do not have the light mounted? Yup, your glock 19 with barrel extended is same barrel length as the 17 essentially.
Originally Posted by Armyscoutman25: Slightly off topic, but I'm assuming the nub mod will not work with a hood? If it does where do I get one? I'm currently having the Nub mod for the SLS (hood) level 3 holster worked up. It will be shaped a tad different and require you to remove the hood mechanism, add a small washer to the top screw to give it a bit of stand off, but still have most of the same benefit. It will come with a wrench for the holster, a washer or two, and the nub kit. A few...
Thanks for sharing this information. The gun that you had the extended/threaded barrel on….was that a 19? If so, did it fit in the 7TS holster made for the Glock 19, or did you have to use a Glock 17 holster to fit the extra barrel length? Nice oven mitt, by the way.
thats my favorite mitt.... Yes that is a Glock 19, the 19 holster has a hole out the bottom so an extended barrel works fine. Suppressor would not. The only difference between the Glock 17 and Glock 19 light holsters are the length of the barrel plug. I believe I have just 17 light holsters and can run the 19 in them just fine with the light on. Without the light they work but has some play.
Silly question, but are you sure you've installed the light properly? Something's not allowing that weapon to seat properly in the holster so that the hood can be properly manipulated. I'd start there before carving things up. If it is properly installed, I'd contact Safariland.
I bought the 6360 for my Springfield XD with TLR-1. The holster has the SLS hood, the ALS and the Hood guard. Well the rotating hood (strap) hits the corner of the rear of the slide and stops. I can muscle it past, but it hangs up almost every time, so it's putting a glitch in my draw. I tried heating the strap up and shaping it, but it's not the kind of plastic that holds a shape. I'm not sure where to go from there. Any thoughts?
I think I've got a non lightbearing Safariland laying around for a 5" XD...I can send it to you if you want to canabalize it for the hood? Are you authorized for ALS only? I just made the switch from the same setup you're running to an ALS only w hood guard and don't miss the extra layer of retention...PM me if you want the holster, I have no use for it.
^ Really the answer if possible. I have small hands for my size, and the draw with both the SLS hood and the ALS was too slow. The move to make the hood go forward put me in a shitty position to hit the ALS release. I have a different holster that is ALS only and have no issues of that nature.
My current, or rather previous holster is ALS only. I wear it on a single strap leg panel with the flex adapter pulled all the way up. The hood is about even with the belt. I always felt that just the ALS seemed like not enough retention in a gun grab because it's lower on my body. I can't go back to a belt mounted holster, so I figured when I went with the light, I'd go all out. I've got a couple ideas on how to cannibalize a strap to make it work. DOUG, as for the draw and the shitty...
Jim Dexter found an issue with his comped duty pistol and his Safariland ALS duty holster. Placing the pistol into the holster for one handed manipulation with the slide locked to the rear requires the ALS system to be deactivated twice. The first deactivation unlocks the weapon for draw, the second release is required to allow the comp to pass through the locking mechanism.
Reston Group Training--- 2-Day Performance Gun Fighting - Mod 1 Restricted to LE/MIL 6/1/17 8:00 AM----6/2/17 4:30 PM Shelby County SO Training Center, Columbiana, AL Participants in this course should have a core understanding of marksmanship fundamentals and strong weapons handling skills. Building on these fundamentals, participants will be instructed in high performance skills and will practice techniques to enable them to successfully perform in firearm engagements. Days are typically...
I'll warn you up front. This seems like a long post. I read that we should not just post pics but actually talk about why we are running the gear and how it's performing. So I'm trying to honor that. If it's too much, just let me know. This is my current war belt, Version 4. This was more like an overhaul though than introducing some improvements to the previous "base system". That base system was sold on the E&E and is long gone. The war belt has been a work in progress, for about the...
Thank you B0308. Honestly, I was trying hard to get it finished, it was about 0300 and I can tell from my many mistakes. On the McNett fixed blade. I picked mine up from OPTactical, but I believe Jon stopped carrying that item. They are another really solid gear company. You can contact them, it's possible they may have one not on the inventory books.
One of a few comments I left out. The DownRangeGear malice stabilizers really work well in this scenario because the backside as you see it, is the Velcro loop. So that attaches to the Velcro of the inner belt and overall adds to the security of the pouch. Chris @ DownRangeGear is a Marine veteran who does try to go above and beyond to provide good customer service. I've order a lot of buckles and webbing etc. from him because I like to try different things with my gear.
Get suspenders. Especially if you add a radio and water to your belt. You can get Vtac or other tactical brands, but some guys get Husky or similar carpentry style options from the hardware store and they work reasonably well. Contractors spend a lot more time working, climbing, and crawling with weight hanging off their belts than we do. They don't get to say it is too hot or too cold to train.
Well written post.While i am sure not everyone will agree with all your choices , at least you have thought them through. Only thing left is to run it hard and see what shakes loose or chafes the fuck out of you.
Have you looked at the new USGI tourniquet pouches? They are part of the IFAK II and are made by Sekri I believe. They are pretty nice and are a good way to keep your TQ out of the dirt and elements. They can be mounted horizontally with velcro straps or vertically with MOLLE. The pouch secures closed with velcro and a metal snap button. There is a pull loop to grab that allows you to in snap the button and then the velcro completely opens up along the front.
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