No, there aren't any pictures.

A good friend came over today and gave me a bottle of some new fangled super-duper gun solvent to try out. Apparently he fell into a couple of bottles and was impressed, so he gave one bottle to me to try out.  It is called "Stage One Shooter Lube solvent". (Apparently there is also a Stage One lubricant, but all I got was the solvent.)  It was in a small spray bottle. Maybe a red tint to a watery looking liquid, with virtually zero smell.  It says spray on, wipe off all the crud.  Eco-friendly ( yawnnnnnn....), synthetic, yada-yada-yada.

Wonderful, another bottle of snake oil that will clean like no other. I watched several youboob videos about guys trying it on their guns, and got to thinking of a way to actually figure out if this stuff does clean better than the other solvents.     I ended up taking an AR bolt and bolt carrier, which was shall we say----pretty dirty. I decided to clean a part with one cleaner, then wipe it down with extreme prejudice, then use a different brand solvent to see if the second one will loosen up anything the first one didn't. Then, maybe even try a third solvent.

So, I started with a dirty bolt, and wiped it down with ol' faithful--Hoppes #9. (I used clean white old t-shirts to see whatever broke loose.)  As expected, after letting the Hoppes#9 sit for a few minutes, it produced a pretty black gnarly looking cloth. I wiped it down really good, and tried Shooter's Choice for the second test. I used about the same amount, let it sit, and again wiped off the whole thing to see if anything new blackened the rag.  Sure enough, there was a significant amount of black goop on my test rag.  Again, I also realize a second application of Hoppes might have shown the same results.

I then took the carrier and applied the Hoppes #9.  After waiting and wiping it down, I sprayed some of the new Stage One Shooter Lube on the carrier..  (The lack of any smell sure was weird.)  After a few minutes, I wiped it down, and found a considerably large amount of black crap on the rag, more so than the second try with Shooter's Choice after the Hoppes #9 earlier.

Since I was pretty well out of dirty AR components, I grabbed my trusty .22 suppressed Ruger Mk1 anti-tree-rat discombobulator I keep handy.  (I try to keep that particular pistol as dirty as possible.)  I took the Hoppes #9 to the bolt, and afterwards, I tried Butch's Bore Shine ( the only other solvent I had right there.)  The Butch's Bore Shine probably did the best in removing more than the Hoppe's #9.

Not scientific al all, as there were a whole bunch of variables, but interesting to me none the less.  No, I didn't try to clean the bore, as copper fouling is a separate problem to deal with.

(I think I'm going to stick with Shooter's Choice for powder/crud cleaning .)

 

Original Post

Be VERY careful about possible chemical reactions when mixing solvents.

Are you wearing gloves or anything?  Powerful solvents are also really good in penetrating human skin.  Livers, kidneys and brain are some of the more susceptible organs (not counting skin!) that can be damaged by solvents.

Those of us that have served in the military KNOW that cleaning with ANY solvent pulls not only surface crud out but other carbon & crud that is in the pores of the metal also.  Hence some cleaning regimens take place over three days and just about as much crud is extracted on day 3 as days 1 & 2.

 

~Will

 




 

 

   Anybody can blow something up, but to disarm anothers bomb, this is when talent, skill, bravery & LUCK will all determine "Success or Failure".  

 

Location: UTAH              Joined: 2003

Wild_Willie posted:

...Hence some cleaning regimens take place over three days and just about as much crud is extracted on day 3 as days 1 & 2.

Yup. Subsequent cleaning as in your test won't necessarily indicate that the first solvent failed. Just that it takes time, that there are layers of goo and the first broke them down, etc. etc. 

Triple agree on safety. If not clear what it even IS then I usually don't even use it anymore. But surely will do PPE and avoid mixing with other chemicals. I've seen some weird reactions just with stuff like strippers on dry surfaces, or two incompatible paints layered. Bubbling, smoking. And that's with only one in liquid format! Back in college housekeeping staff mixed a couple normal cleaning chemicals (never knew what exactly) to make a "super cleaner" and  they had to evacuate, ventilate, and clean building for like 3 days before we could use it for classes again. 

So, the standard practice is to flush between chemicals. After stripping, etching, etc. I'll usually water (or soap and water). I like denatured alcohol, but only use if I know it'll kill the reaction (as for cold blues, etc). Anyway, after water, degrease, let dry (or blow dry) then next chemical step. Yes, even just doing things like quick finish then oiling. 

(This is also why non-poison chemicals are good. I'm washing them down the drain, and small quantities add up over time, poison the water table, which I drink!).

 

Have a plan for bad reactions, if you want to mix for testing etc. Like, do it outside at least, maybe have a steel bucket of sand to dump into so it can react away without blowing up or killing you too badly. 

People working with reactive chemicals (like acids, as I have done) have other chemicals around to toss in the mix and moderate or kill the reaction if something goes wrong (put a plate with the wrong composition in, the reaction can run away on you without warning etc) but that's known-chemistry. No magic moderator I know of that does this for everything. Just be outside and be able to run away. 

The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life. – Theodore Roosevelt

 

Joined: 19NOV2004   Location: Mission, Kansas

Mojo:

If you get a chance try Gunzilla. Used it on  a  revolver bore that had a large amount of lead fouling. The lead literally came out of the bore in clumps. It works well for all fouling except copper, (for which the brand makes a separate product.) Also works as a lubricant & protectant. Lastly, it's also eco-friendly & actually smells good, so no complaints from the Missus.

"Number 7 was interesting. My third leadoff homer in three games. I had used the same bat for the first two homers. I had planned to keep using that bat until I broke it. But while I was on deck, I put it back & took out another bat. You want to know that it's you and not the bat."- Brady Anderson, Baltimore Orioles.

 

Home: Eugene, OR. USA

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