I have some recent experience in doing such conversions, both with Hand Grenade pouches, and with 40 MM Grenade pouches.

Most of us have some of these pouches lying around.  Why not Mod'em to suit your M1?

Simple to do, and does not require a sewing machine or any remarkable skill.  Post here if interested.

Not offering a service, but simple "How-To" text advice.  It's a DIY project, and cheap.

Original Post

I'm interested.

-------------------------

Mark

Swear allegiance to the flag Whatever flag they offer

Never hint at what you really feel

Teach the children quietly For some day sons and daughters

Will rise up and fight while we stood still

 

Joined:  2/24/2003                          Location:  Nevada, USA

OK, here are the instructions for the Molle Hand Grenade/Frag Pouch:

Concept proven--it works!

Allow me to preface these remarks by saying that I used two Garand 8-rd en-bloc clips of 7.62 NATO (.308) ammo for this proof-of-concept. Those using longer .30-'06 ctgs (or similar) in this application need to adjust the length of the Clip Rention Strap (section B, mentioned below, to suit your slightly different application. Note also that this 7.62 NATO ctg installation required the installation of a spacer at the bottom of the pouch, so that the clips would not sink too deeply into the pouch. A section of 1/4", (or close to it) closed cell foam, such as can be made from a section of GI foam sleeping pad will do--just make sure to punch a drain hole in the center of same.

Materials required:

A) USGI MOLLE II Handgrenade (sic) Pouch. Make certain that the pouch has the internal, 1" wide webbing strap across the top back of the inside of the pouch. Number of pouches variable.

B) Velcro One-Wrap, preferably a max of 1.75" wide. 1" wide used for initial testing/construction. This dimension is likely a variable one, depending on how the individual pouch is sewn, so a One-Wrap width of 1.75" is playing it safe; the wider, up to this 1.75" limit, the better. I suggest a light, contrasting color for visibility, but the One Wrap is hidden within the pouch, so YMMV. Length of One-Wrap variable.

C) A suitable amount of closed-cell foam sheeting. I used 5/8" thick closed-cell foam from a spare GI sleeping mat.

D) Sharp, sturdy scissors.

Note: As with all instructions, the user is encouraged to use common sense. If any user has questions about anything, post them here, and I will answer them, and update the instructions.

Construction.

1) Construct the bottom spacer(s), and insert into pouch, if required for your application. Lay the spacer(s) flat on the bottom of the pouch. Punch an appropriate drain hole to match with existing drain grommet on the pouch. Nip the 4 corners of the foam spacer at 45 deg angle, removing maybe 3/16" of foam material, to improve fit. People desiring a permanent installation can use appropriate glue to secure the foam spacer(s) to the bottom of the pouch. Those desiring options can use strips of sticky-back Velcro to secure the pieces of closed cell foam, the wider the better. Use alcohol to prep surfaces to which the sticky-back Velcro will be attached. I found two spacers optimal for 7.62 NATO clips, and one optimal for .30-'06 clips. The use of the spacer(s) elevates the clip in the pouch, and allows grasping the clip with gloved hands.

2) Cut off 1 x 1" long (section A), 1 x 9-1/4" long (section B), and 1 x 2-1/2" long (section C) sections from the roll of One-Wrap. This will be for one pouch. Install the B section into the pouch making sure to run it UNDER the pre-existing 1" webbing strap inside the pouch, and making a sort of "U" inside the pouch. Install one Garand clip, BULLET TIPS DOWN, into the "U" just made, and slide section B back-and-forth so that it encloses the clip vertically, and there is about 1" left over for the user to grasp as a pull-tab, once the top of the "U" is secured around the clip. Suggest running the One Wrap with furry (loop) side towards the clip, and pull tab section nearest the front of the pouch, for best ease of grasping.

3) Once that has been accomplished, then remove the clip, and secure section B by using section C to "capture" section B. Place section C, more-or-less centered on the internal, existing, 1" webbing strip, OVER the 1" strap inside the pouch, making sure it engages with the exposed portions of section B which lie on both sides of the 1" webbing strap. Section B is now secured in place by the combination of section C and the pre-existing 1" webbing strap in the pouch. the two sections of One Wrap "sandwich" the existing 1" webbing strap in between them.

4) Secure section A to the unengaged portion of section B, and so making a pull-tab.

5) Optional. If one finds the pouch is too loose, and the clips rattle, use some stout shock cord, wrapped around the outside of the pouch to tighten things up. The adjustable strap on the pouch probably makes this optional step unnecessary, but YMMV.

That's it. You have now secured the Second Garand clip inside the Grenade pouch, where it will STAY until needed. Note that the user can make any adjustments needed by simply detaching and re-arranging the sections of One-Wrap.

Submitted for considerations. Sorry, no pix; taking them would take longer than it's worth. If the instructions above are unclear, please let me know, and I will edit them for clarity.

Instructions for 40 MM Frag Pouch:

The 40MM pouch is a very tight full-insertion fit for any M1 clip, but it can be done. However, once the clip is fully inserted into the 40MM pouch, gravity, and the user's body movement, will drive the clip down into the pouch, rendering it difficult to access.

This being so, the bottom of the pouch needs to be closed/secured, in order to retain a certain amount of added closed-cell foam required to prevent the clips from sinking too far down into the pouch, and so becoming difficult to extract, particularly with gloved hands.

What I did was to heat up a suitable nail, and burn/melt two pairs of matching holes at the very bottom, center of the pouch.   IOW, one will be melting two holes, side-by-side, through all the fabric on the bottom center of the pouch   Then, I secured the bottom of the pouch using some aluminum staples.  Good, stout thread would do as well. 

This prevents the foam inserts that will be made from the closed cell mentioned above from escaping the bottom of the pouch.  As mentioned above, the fully-inserted clip WILL  slide down inside the pouch without such foam inserts.  The exact size/dimensions of the inserts one uses is dependent on the length of the loaded clip.  The point is to elevate the clip within the pouch so that the base of  the clip is easily grasped by gloved hands., and the flap can be snapped shut. 

Interesting. I may have to rethink one of my planned projects. 

I recently bought a bulk lot of 20 unused frag pouches for super cheap and a bunch of M1 bandolier cardboard inserts to try and kluge something together. I had planned to use an old Blackhawk chest rig and cover it with the frag pouches. 

___________________________________________________________________

Proud to be an 'uneducated, white male'.

Some people are just like slinkies. They really aren't good for much, but will sure bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

Can you take a pic of the completed pouch?

-------------------------

Mark

Swear allegiance to the flag Whatever flag they offer

Never hint at what you really feel

Teach the children quietly For some day sons and daughters

Will rise up and fight while we stood still

 

Joined:  2/24/2003                          Location:  Nevada, USA

..why I love this place...heck somewhere out there there's probably some LFer that has a MOLLE  rig to carry Lancea, Verutum, Spiculum, Martiobarbuli and a pack mount for his Pila...just sayin..

 

 

Unsure about many references in your comment.  Rather cryptic, but YMMV.  

Moving  beyond  your comment,  just tying to provide M1 Garand users with inexpensive alternative clip pouches.

Not trying to make a buck, just offering some alternatives for free.  I've done them, and they work.  

 

 

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