I strongly agree on pinned gas blocks. I have seen/fixed issues with set screw and clamp gas blocks. I prefer clamping (not two-piece clamp down styles) over set screw, though, because I think they provide a ton of surface contact versus set screw block which tend to pull the block down from the top and thus away from the barrel on the bottom.
For set screws, I think dimpling is a must to hold in place (but not holding power, if that makes sense) especially if the block doesn't rest fully against the shoulder on the barrel, and for properly aligning/locating the block. If you want to dimple yours, and assuming it has two screws, there is a trick to aligning the block with the gas port:
Use a round toothpick or other similar round piece of wood or plastic that fits into the gas port loosely enough to slide, but not so loose as to wiggle excessively. Place inside the port (which should be cleaned and dry) and then flush cut it with the barrel using very sharp blade. Remove and score the pin at the halfway mark and then make sure the cut end is rounded/smoothed. Once set, check fit in gas port again. If satisfied, leave it in place.
Now place block onto barrel, slide into position, and then flip gun over. This should cause pin to drop into the gas block's gas port. The pin will be partially still in the barrel, as well. Now you can tighten the forward-most set screw in place. Once satisfied with alignment, flip gun back over, which should cause pin to drop out of gas block port and back fully into barrel. Use a cleaning rod inserted from chamber to break pin off at score mark and observe to ensure the first half comes out the front of the barrel. Pull rod back and repeat to remove second half.
Not you can use a small (1/8" or so) drill bit inserted through the gas block's rear set screw hole to mark the dimple location. The bit should fill up the screw hole but not so much to damage threads. Drill slow, use oil, and pre Drill in about 1/32" or so, but no more than 1/16". Remove the gas block. Using a drill press and ensuring the barrel is securely clamped in perfect vertical alignment with drill bit, drill out the pilot hole per gas block manufacturer's spec for the sec screw, likely a 3/32" diameter bit, drilled to about 1/16". (spitballing, so find out for sure based on your selected parts.)
That's my method, anyway, which I've used twice. There is this item as well, which might be preferable to screwing around with making a toothpick alignment pin: ar15-gas-block-aligner-5-56mm
I am inclined to stake the set screws when tight (can be a pain) and use red locktite, too. I've considered soldering them, too...lol. I just don't trust gas blocks unless pinned, over abundance of caution and all, even under metal railed handguards. Heat, vibration, recoil, and gas pressure can make tight things loose. Threads can stretch, etc.