This is why Mods tend to suck, but most of my problem was a lack of a capable machine to handle it. I found out my current machine won't handle #69 thread, so this was done with regular thread, and I just had to stitch each seam multiple times to give it strength. Here two premilinary pics, I'll try to add more up close stuff later on.

And after:
Never interrupt the enemy when he is doing something wrong. - Erwin Rommel
Original Post
I added a back waist strap, made the 1 in buckles in the front static(they used to adjust the vest around you) so now it adjusts in the back to keep everything around front, and replaced the bulky padded h harness with the X webbing (1.5 in) in the back. Attached it all with 1.5 in fastex, and added triglides to suck up the slack. All in all, pretty basic, but it came out ok I think. Anyway, we'll find out, the guy I made it for is taking it outside the wire tonight.
Never interrupt the enemy when he is doing something wrong. - Erwin Rommel
I was surprised at how much lighter it became with the loss of all the fabric, and the suspenders. freer on your body, which will be good once we go back to the woods, and get outta the IBA's. I would never pick Mesh as a base fabric, but it was a fun mod to do.
Never interrupt the enemy when he is doing something wrong. - Erwin Rommel
Hey, that's a pretty cool mod. Now you can wear a full size ruck with it, too. Never did like that thick padded h-harness, especially under ruck straps. The mesh can be a PITA to sew on, but cooler in hot weather. Always back it up with binding tape on the opposite side and it works fine. Also suggest you invest in some "super tack" and a few large needles from para-gear. That way you can hand tack your stress points and make sure they don't blow out. That's the problemo with home machines, you just can't get up to "E" or 69 thread. Try "extra heavy duty" nylon thread sold at home sewing stores. It is just under size "E" and pulls through most home machines. You should also be using the biggest needle that will fit, probably an 18. To get those thick build-ups in requires some fucking around. You'll notice as you lift on the presser foot lever, the upper tension disc tension is released. See if you can find out what accomplishes this and disable it. That way you can get those thicker build-ups in there without releasing your top tension. Look for some kind of lever going to the tension discs that moves moves when you lift the presser foot lever. If you can find and disable this, you might be able to drive on here. However, when you do this, you now have to pull slack for your thread by hand, every time you remove the work. Also, see my post under tip of the day about setting hook-needle gap. You need to set the hook really close to the needle scarf because I'll bet you're getting a shit-load of needle deflection. One last thought, see if you can take some fine sandpaper to the bobbin case opener, which might possibly open the gap up wide enough for "E" thread.

"Pacifism is a shifty doctrine where a person claims all the benefits of the body politic, without any of the responsibilities, and then claims a halo for their dishonesty." Heinlein

the problem is that the CMVS panels really do not afford users much realestate to work with.

May want to look at stitching through or stabilizing where the back straps cross, that way the rig won't get too jumbled.

Oh yeah, don't forget to Cut & Paste Diz's last post into some text file for future reference!


******** EGG Sends *********

Lol, done Egg. I actually didn't stabilize the back straps, cause I just ordered a Hellcat, and will be giving my MAV's X harness to him to use with his new rig. (also hence the 1.5 in webbing, and not 2 in.)
Never interrupt the enemy when he is doing something wrong. - Erwin Rommel
Coats and Clark makes a #46 nylon upholstery thread that most home machines will handle.LMK If you need a hookup.
I ditched my LBE SS padding also and it's great over armor and under a pack.


"When this world becomes ours,what we are doing will be right"

I brought one over here with me from mob, but it was in the conex, and now the connex belongs to someone else probably. I dunno, it disappeared. Anyway, so I ordered the White JEans machine from AAFES, and got it in like 1.5-2 wks. It works, not the best, but I'm saving for that Juki everyone talks about when I get home.
Never interrupt the enemy when he is doing something wrong. - Erwin Rommel
Keep that Jeans machine oiled!!
I used this stuff call Triflon on mine.If you take off the right side cover there will be a double sheave keep that shaft lubed.

I loosened the setscrew on my 'crankwheel'(where you can de-clutch to wind boobins)and re-tightend the thing so it wouldn't slip.I don't worry about loosening it to wind bobbins,wind bobbins while you sew.( should learn this you won't burn up your motor control,hehehehe.I know it sucks I've ruined a few machines...)
Keep us posted on how the machine holds up,also if you have problems with grit or dust.

You can get some #20 needles thru Sailrite and pick up a fish-hook hone/sharpener.Change out needles with your bobbin(at least) and at the end of the day touch them up with the hone.


"When this world becomes ours,what we are doing will be right"

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