So I'm currently an OPFOR guy down here at JRTC. One cool perk about the job is we are authorized to utilize PT and other "bump" type helmets for just about everything except for actual ballistic applications. Considering MILES gear and blanks is typically the order of the day, this means that 90% of the year I wear a ballcap, but the rest of the time I'm wearing a Pro Tec. Typically the PT helmets will only be utilized for operating military vehicles, and primarily, (more importantly), for mounting NODS when we are replicating near peer threats against the rotational training units. 

I LOVE being able to wear a bump helmet opposed to an ACH, it's lighter, cooler, you name it. HOWEVER, there are some major drawbacks.

Pros of a stock PT Helmet:
-Light Weight (this cannot be overstated)
-Cool (again, JRTC, it's fuckin' hot down here)

-Easily modified


-Padding is not the best, sits real high on the head with stock pads leaving no room for beanies/6th principle of patrolling, etc.... 

-Issued base plates do not fit properly or securely, allowing NODs to rotate out of whack

-Chin strap is fucking garbage

-Light weight allows NODs to pull forward, making the chin strap even more of a bitch


This is how I initially set my helmet up. I kept the stock pads and chin strap, threw on a VAS shroud, a paint job, and some morale patches and called it good. As soon as it got dark we did a patrol where we had to run NODs and I was miserable the entire time. The whole helmet slipped all over my head, resulting in hot spots and terribleness. Back to the drawing board. 




The first chance I got I grabbed my old Ops core harness that I had previously used on my ACH. Turns out it fits the PT helmet just fine. VAST improvement. Over the course of the last 2 years I have also been experimenting with new pad combinations and placement. While I may be losing some protection, I gained vast amounts of comfort by replacing the top and front pads with those from an ACH. I left the rear PT pad. This allows me to run beanies, get a more comfortable and secure fit, and really maximise the ventilation. 




Now that I had finally figured out the best pad/harness combo, my next two issues were my paint job and a counterweight. For whatever scientific reason, PT helmets shed krylon like its free. I have had to repaint this bastard like 5 times in 2 years. It looks like shit, I lose camouflage, and I just end up with big shiny spots on my dome. I determined I needed a cover, and if that cover included a counterweight pouch then all the better. A quick internet search located an OD green cover from some airsoft company that fit the bill, I think shipping cost more than the cover itself. A lot of cussing and screwing and cutting later, the cover went on. Well, it really wasn't all that hard, I just had to poke a few holes for the screws and get my methodology down, but I also despise putting helmet covers on anyways. I added some bungee that I cut off of some old ACU pants, in order to allow chem lights, strobes, or improvised camo, and made myself a counterweight out of some gun safe bolts and electrical tape, and I was done. 

Here she is in her current setup. I'm pretty content. It retains all the comfort that I want, looks distinctive from the issued PT helmets that my comrades have, which keeps them from taking it on accident, (a real problem when everybody has the same helmet...), is much more useful than the stock configuration, and is extremely comfortable with NODs, (and MUCH MUCH quieter at night when busting through the pine forests, might I add!). 







In summary, is it as good as it's high cost competitors? No, probably not. However, it works for me and I didn't have to drop $200+ on what is essentially a plastic bike helmet, plus it's unique and has features I use. 

Hopefully this helps somebody. If anyone has questions fire away.


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Glad you figured out a rig that works!  Does your counter weight flop around any?

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Nice toes.


Did you prime the PT helmet before you painted it?








Trajan Aurelius



When violence is the local language, be fluent.


“Governments may think and say as they like, but force cannot be eliminated, and it is the only real and unanswerable power. We are told that the pen is mightier than the sword, but I know which of these weapons I would choose.“   Lt. General Paul Carton de Wiart, British Army


Sorry for the late reply. I used the standard X harness. I didn't drill the holes out any, I just basically used the screw itself as a drill and cranked the bolts through with a screw driver. The only thing I had to do was put a little loctite on threading in order to keep the nut from backing out. 

Trajan, I never primed it when I painted it initially. It was a tan helmet to begin with. If I was going to paint another one I would probably both prime and seal the paint job, but I'm not sure how that would have worked out either in the long run. 

That's excellent. Good to know. 

I had seen Pat recommend aervoe before for rifles, but I had never had problems with krylon and rustoleum before this helmet. I believe it was just the finish that already existed which was causing the problems. Very interesting to see how much better the aervoe holds up.  

like anything else it comes down to good prep work.


I have noticed that the laser speed readers that show your speed in areas that have a lot of traffic speeding tend to not  pick up the jeep easily and don't typically register a speed untill I am right on it. I don't know if t is a function of the paint or because it is super flat paint and has zero sheen combined with a flat piece of glass angled back just enough to bounce any reflection upwards.


My buddies cruiser with the laser gun, same thing. Radar, no problem with speed, but eye safe IR laser, not so much.

Location: in SE Idaho, the birthplace of television. 

Very interesting about the radar. 

Might I ask what you did for prep work on your PT helmet? Any sanding or specific cleaning chemicals? 

I feel like if I had hit my helmet with some rough grit sand paper to kind of knock the slick factory finish down a little it probably would have held better. 

Eye safe IR Laser... Radar can see the metal but laser doesn't seem to get enough reflection to the receiver to register


I just degreased it with hot water and Dawn dish soap, gave it a buffing with a scotch brite scour pad and then degreased it again with Dawn dish soap, let it dry and then Aervoe'd it.

Location: in SE Idaho, the birthplace of television. 

I've only touched it up once since I painted it in 2005 with 16 rattle cans of Aervoe 977 Flat Sand. Matter of fact if you google "aervoe 977 sand" the fisrt bunch of pics are of my jeep and my guns.



Location: in SE Idaho, the birthplace of television. 

Remembered another option for guys with out convenient access to Aervoe products, Krylon fusion primer spray paint. It bonds to plastics and allows you to get a better foundation for the top coats. Rustoleum has one that works good too.


I have also recently discovered Plastidip, you know the crap the kids are painting their rims/cars with. They have some camo versions in flat earthy colors and you can peel it off in a sheet, but stays put until you decide to remove it. Going to get some more and do a write up on it after testing it out some more. You can find it at your local Vatozone/Oreilly's/Advanced Auto store. After seeing how well it has held up on my brothers rims/car I was sufficiently intrigued to get some to test.

Location: in SE Idaho, the birthplace of television. 

Plastidip is awesome stuff to keep around.  I did the Jeep decal on the grill of my car with it as well as a number of tools that needed some grip to them.  Cheap and holds up well



Don't look at me in that tone of voice


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