XTCBX posted:

That’s super cool! I have absolutely no need for one but I’ve been lusting after antique anvils for years...there’s just something about them. 

Well unfortunately for wannabe blacksmiths, anvils have become a very popular collector item. That’s why I went with new. There was zero cost savings in searching for a used one.

In my area there was a time when you came across anvils all the time at flea markets, estate sales, auctions, etc...it was not uncommon to find nice 140-280lb anvils for 20$-50$... and then one of the scrap yards started  gobbling them up. Now a good -used steel anvil with good rebound and nice ring (not cast iron, not cracked, not hollow, etc..) is harder to find - and more expensive than an all original single action colt.

You can buy a new Rigid / Peddinghaus / NC forged steel anvil for 300$ - 2500$ depending on weight, finish, style, etc.

You have to be wary of a LOT of the anvils on Amazon... Chinese made cast iron, sometimes with a "hard" steel plate welded on the top to help a little with the "ring" or "rebound" tests... these are USUALLY powder coated or enameled to help hide the welds or casting seams..

David Reeves posted:

In my area there was a time when you came across anvils all the time at flea markets, estate sales, auctions, etc...it was not uncommon to find nice 140-280lb anvils for 20$-50$... and then one of the scrap yards started  gobbling them up. Now a good -used steel anvil with good rebound and nice ring (not cast iron, not cracked, not hollow, etc..) is harder to find - and more expensive than an all original single action colt.

You can buy a new Rigid / Peddinghaus / NC forged steel anvil for 300$ - 2500$ depending on weight, finish, style, etc.

You have to be wary of a LOT of the anvils on Amazon... Chinese made cast iron, sometimes with a "hard" steel plate welded on the top to help a little with the "ring" or "rebound" tests... these are USUALLY powder coated or enameled to help hide the welds or casting seams..

Yep. I’ve heard the same from people all over. Though I still hear about guys finding them for pennies per pound, I got tired of waiting, well I got tired of hunting with no luck. This ones from Texas Farriers Supply, they have earned a very solid reputation for good budget anvil. 

I WANT a Nimba. Someday. 

I finally got my grinder and half of my shop set up. 

I need to carve out time to build the rest of the benches and add a bottom shelf to them. 

Heres some of the stuff I’m working on at the moment.

A pile of 1075, 80crv2 and some A2 

B1284860-5F07-4C8A-846B-203CF94BB7A4

This is going to be my EDC. It’s getting a modified sheepsfoot blade and southern cross( 1st MARDIV) pin layout

ED07FAB5-6E96-4480-8263-62B33FBDFD7F

A Bowie I forged a long time ago

F19E3BB7-4450-4E5C-B16E-33D8D4D3CBEE

Recently finished 1075 chopper. I’m going to try a tsuka ito in black on this one. 

A15C344E-3916-492D-BAFD-20A7D4C1253E

Similar knife in 3/16” A2

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Plugging away on a batch this week. I’m full time in college taking advantage of the post 9/11 GI Bill, so I get work done on knives after “work” 

 

This is my model M27. It’s a workhorse that’s capable of precise work if you need it to. This ones getting a Scandi grind and I’m undecided on the handle material. I’m also trying a 1st MARDIV southern cross pin layout on this one. 

DFE84BA5-0788-4839-92B0-F8972A6F28BC8BBE1C6D-B0DA-4E59-9110-AD035CA72BE789C824DE-1AF2-411E-99B0-F2EDD85FBC6E6872A17F-05A6-4628-A81D-F0360AF1CE71

Custom order for @Community Member a EDC seax in .187” 80crv2 that will have removable terotuf handle and an IWB sheath. 

I think I’m going to make one of these for myself too.

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I’m trying to get better at wraps as I believe they are the most durable and offer the highest grip of any handle material. 

My latest attempt on a hybrid puukko/kaiken 

This is a double layer of the outer sheath of black 550 cord under the OD outer layer. This feels excellent in hand. One issue I’ve always had with wrapped knives is they feel like shit in the hand, the doubled base layer gives it some depth and thickness and I think improves the feel in hand. 

I’m going to experiment with some handle materials under a wrap, stuff like neoprene and horse stall mat with 550 or Ito over it. 

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I got some work done in the past few days. 

Got the 550 wrap on this kaiken/puukko hybrid done with the Turks head and epoxy. 

 

B5454766-E8B8-4B8F-9867-55677244E322

Rough shaped this SR25 in vintage micarta 

2E82CD76-80BB-4BC4-8019-CF69D497D3B52E95EC49-874D-4472-A616-E0B5611B97476BB1BCDB-8B95-4A1E-81EB-746F0F0BC6E8A53622D0-0098-4F93-A1C2-BFE51E01A42D

 

And here’s some desert ironwood over OD green micarta at 220 grit 

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Those are great.

Dang, I don't know which one I like best but I do have a weakness for desert ironwood.  

But then that 550 cord wrapped one would be a super handy little blade... 

If it isn't a secret and you don't mind me asking, what finish did you use on the ironwood?   That really pops.

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@Community Member thanks bud! Desert ironwood is fantastic! It’s mostly stable, finishes beautifully and works like a synthetic. 

My recommendation is cord wrap, micarta, G10 or terotuf for a “working” blade. Anything that will be used and abused. 

For a hunting/fishing/camping/BBQ gun belt knife the desert ironwood is really hard to beat. 

As far as that finish, it’s really proprietary, but I can spill the beans a bit. you Take an oxygen atom and covalently bond it to two hydrogen atoms, once that’s done it’s just a spray on, wipe off. 

On a serious note, I finish wood in tru oil, it’s easy to apply and is low maintenance, and looks good. After 5-6 coats and a light buff in between it will look about like that. 

Those pictures are off the belt grinder at 600grit. The wood is smoother once I hand sand down to 400, then back up to 800. And if I really want SHINE I’ll go all the way up 1500-2000 grit BEFORE applying tru oil. Really pops then 

XTCBX posted:

That OD green / iron wood handle is really really nice...

Thank you! I’m very happy with how it’s turning out. 

Its going to a friend who helped me set up my shop. 

Thanks for your techniques!   I've never gone that fine on wood, I'll have to give it a try.

I do think I will have some problems getting a good bond between the oxygen and hydrogen.    But then if it was simple, everyone would be doing it.     

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stray round posted:

Thanks for your techniques!   I've never gone that fine on wood, I'll have to give it a try.

I do think I will have some problems getting a good bond between the oxygen and hydrogen.    But then if it was simple, everyone would be doing it.     

I was going to post something about cold temperatures, but I can’t make it come out funny....never mind.  Carry on.  

this ones for a very patient and understanding lightfighter. Needs a sheath and sharpened and it’s done. 
edc seax(need a better name) 

3/16 80crv2 3 1/4” blade 4 1/4” handle 

natural micarta scales with titanium corby bolts fasteners. 
it will have kydex with a discreet carry concepts clip. 

A8C942A1-2ED4-4B27-AC2B-FCC53B8784A0E26FA5E5-EE69-46FA-B348-00D8C645102D751AE5B3-D244-45B7-91DD-03892B99C4E00DC6623B-D771-4A82-833D-579325726AD4

 

this little guys for me. It’s tiny. 1 3/4” blade 2 3/4” handle 1075 od green canvas micarta with copper pins. 
I’m thinking about calling these the “interrogative”. It’s not always the right tool, but goddamn if you won’t use it for everything. 

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David Reeves posted:

EDC Seax = EDC Sexy

Thanks! I’m happy with how this one is turning out. It’s in the kydex press at the moment! 

I’ve got another on the burner that is just waiting on replacement handle material. It’s getting removable terotuf scales. 

I’ve got these on deck. Hoping to finish them this week. 
they’ll all have kydex sheaths 

D9419963-775C-4DF6-B41F-7B2151AD7811

 

All of them shimmed and taped for drilling the holes. These have tapered tangs so I have to shim the tang so the holes are drilled correctly, otherwise the handle holes won’t line up with the tang holes. Tapered tangs adds a few more dimensions and makes everything more complicated. 

FA53EF63-80CC-4E5C-BEC5-C66BE95C4B52

 

this ones for a friend who’s an electrician. Helped my power the shop. Flat head tip 

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EDC Seax. 

E3AAD128-437A-4EA9-9AE4-5E3D3E4101E38E3E40FC-5A41-4ABA-AE4D-3113EABEF24CAFDF2480-A933-4EF3-B994-8BF4018BC3BB

let me tell you, pitting these to the grinder AFTER everything else is done to make sure the bevels are good is absolutely nerve wracking. Took me 30-40 minutes to build up the nerve to actually do it! 

394DC494-7F5E-482F-BCFB-FAE039F6395624F9D863-9D89-4B2D-A209-83142BF81C07

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Update time 

 

an electrician and an M27 in grey terotuf

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The Mal Paso Seax in natural canvas micarta

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Mal Paso Seax in removable tan terotuf

D82DDD47-B7C1-4A01-8B6C-010BB1E3A16A83808ACB-75C4-4D30-A158-FFADC24C83915402041A-9B9D-482F-892F-CE66758944E4

 

Made myself a knife, a pocket puukko, I'm calling these the "interrogative". They may not always be the right tool, but you'll use em for damn near everything. 

E82E62BF-AF04-40C3-90C7-866F250A7C1C3A62973B-033B-45B5-9B98-B382E8820601C64DB985-6D9F-4C2E-9AEF-49825DC2153C

 

M4 with removable tan terotuf and Rick Marchand(Wildertools) inspired "armageddon" finish. 

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Primitive M4, osage with a dyed hemp wrap. 

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Pequeno mal paso

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this is how I drill the holes through both scales and keep everything straight. You’ll notice one of them has a shim under the tang, that’s how I compensate for the tapered tang. 

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about a full days work finish grinding all these. Took them all up to 120 grit with a worn belt, gives a nice satin finish. 

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swamp thing! 

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I need more clamps. I can’t do more handles than this at a time because I run out of clamps, and I actually ruined one of the interrogatives by using spring clamps. Doh!

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something different for me. I got the idea from Big Chris Knives, half tang with a micarta spacer. Saves weight and can get more knives out of less material. 

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thanks for checking out my work. 

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today was update and upkeep day. I need to do a better job of cleaning up as I go. 

little hook I forged

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got new life as my respirator storage. 

CBBF0065-144D-4FB3-A0CC-93D1FEAD73B4

 

new lights in the main work area. Sunco lights got mentioned in another thread, whoever did, thank you. These things are great! 

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I should’ve taken before photos, I couldn’t walk through this area. 

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without the new lighting 

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with the new lighting

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without 

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with

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got this guy about finished up. Need to sharpen it still.

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I’m thinking about offering this one as is, it doing a gutted 550 wrap. 

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that’s it for now. It was a busy day, but nothing really interesting. I’m super happy I did it though! 

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senorlechero posted:

I just got in a bar of 0.140” CPM3V, if you want something in this steel let me know. 

You mean if someone ELSE wants something in that steel, let you know.😉🤣

Consigliere posted:
senorlechero posted:

I just got in a bar of 0.140” CPM3V, if you want something in this steel let me know. 

You mean if someone ELSE wants something in that steel, let you know.😉🤣

Correct! 


I thought this crowd might like this one. Left ones for Consig, right is something I’m just winging 🤣. First try at a double ground blade is going ok so far. 

996D6BB1-9D1E-4D18-AAB5-C2B866384361

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Malpaso posted:
senorlechero posted:
Left ones for Consig,
 

Nice! Should drive the value of mine up once people find out he has one.

🤣🤣🤣  It's looking really sweet.  Very stabby.  I really wanted 3V steel and here it is.

JB326 posted:

Excellent work! I just found you on the 'gram and gave it a follow. I am a few years into knife making as well, it is a great and therapeutic hobby job.

Thank you! I appreciate it. 

Well I FINALLY finished up what was supposed to an Anniversary(July), then a Christmas present kitchen knife for my wife. She’s quite the cook, and we’ve been using a Victorinox Forschner for about a decade now. So I figured it was time for an upgrade and for me to stretch myself as a maker.

My first kitchen knife.
10” 80crv2
Dyed claro walnut handle, blaze orange g10 liners, jade g10 pins and copper corby bolts.

263C277C-5AB5-43A1-8E62-96DDB9FC5CE09762C896-2E4E-43C1-82EC-29272E9A7A458CA65D71-8CB8-4C3C-9D21-94D3C28FCCC7AC5F2985-4B54-437A-856B-A2E0B47F8D86909B8BF5-7039-43BF-ABAE-494BA7696F20396D30A9-0AA0-43BA-9414-61889F17BED22ABA7B37-143D-4EDB-93E4-524F6C92663DBAC7EC71-86EA-47E8-A82C-69C5B2794FB170CB033F-48A8-4E05-8BD1-F628234853CA

 

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