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Finally!

 

I had the paint, picked up a camo net to use as Pat suggested, but the weather needed to cooperate. It was either too cold, or two wet (high humidity does tend to be the norm here).

 

Well, today was good to go more or less. Over the past few days, I'd given a Cold Steel GI Recon Tanto the treatment, and was really happy with the result, so was eager to paint. I'm still waiting for a veritacle foregrip to get here (long story), but figured I can paint that later and then put it on. No biggie.

 

Here's the first photos anywhere of my M4gery, so...

 

Right o the bench.  The color is actually a bit more green than it looks in this photo. This one actually shows the color a little better, however. Also, it's a pic of her "in the wild".

And, of course, here's the obligatory "rifle leaning against a tree" shot. You know, just cuz.

Now, I'll say that the rifle is still tacky. High humidity coupled with failing sunlight probably didn't help the situation. However, I have to say that as others have said, this is so dead simple to do, it's ridiculous.

 

I thought about camo painting one of my kids, just to have something else to paint.

 

Quick question for you guys re: painting scopes.

 

is there anything more too it than simply covering the lenses (best ways to accomplish that without buying lens caps, anyone?) and putting painters tape over any markings and such that I want to remain uncovered?

 

i just dove into the world of magnified optics with a swfa 1-4 and don't want to shoot myself in the foot, as they say

Originally Posted by rhys:

...covering the lenses (best ways to accomplish that without buying lens caps, anyone?)...

 

I like to cover lenses with a bit of clay dough.  

 

Specifically, I use kneaded eraser, which I have a lot of on hand, but any children's clay dough will work equally as well.

 

It is fast, easy and cheap, and because it is malleable, I can mold it to mask the exact shape of the lens surface, while still allowing the inner cavity around the lenses to receive paint.

 

Making sure that the lenses are clean and free of debris, I roll out a small ball, place it on the center of the lens, and then carefully press it down until the entire lens is covered.  When I am finished painting, I just pull the clay off and discard it.

 

Any slight residue from the clay brushes off with a lens pen.

 

I also do this to mask the lenses of my weapon lights.

 

It works great on front sight posts and rear apertures, as well.

 

Alternately, a balled up wad of painter's tape works, too, but due to atmospheric conditions, it can loose its adhesion to the lens, and fall out during painting.

Last edited by Community Member
Originally Posted by Pat _Rogers:

...I like the idea of the playdough though- thanks for passing that tip on!

 
Pat and rhys (and any other interested parties),
 
Believe it or not, but it actually stopped snowing/raining here, today, and this strange warm globe of light appeared in the sky!  
 
Anyway, I thought that I would use this opportunity to demonstrate how I use the clay dough to mask the lenses.  
 
I prefer artist's kneaded eraser (because I have it on hand, and it is a little more elastomeric), but any common children's clay dough or will work just as well.
 
 
Clean the lenses with the lens pen brush.
 
 
 
 
Roll out a small ball of dough.
 
 
 
 
Position the ball into the center of the lens.
 
 
 
Press the ball flat until it covers all of the glass.
 
 
 
Spray the paint.
 
 
 
 
Remove the dough, and lens pen away any residue (children's clay dough can leave a little oily residue, but it wipes right off).
 
 
 
Done.
 
 
 
 
Let it dry and then shoot.
 
 
 
Last edited by Community Member
Here is my Aero Precision AR that I painted. For not doing it before and for less than 25 bucks, I think it came out alright... The gun was painted and then a few weeks later after the parts arrived I did the mags and accessories. Trying to perfectly recreate the original pattern was tough, However, I like the finishes product.  I used Kyrlon paint and then hit it with a clear coat after.

Here's the ugly ass original look when i bought it:


Drying and before the clear coat:


Assembled and ready to be shot:
Originally Posted by kaltesherz:

       
Pretty sure this thread is just for those who painted their boomsticks according to Pats method as seen in the beginning of this thread. If you want to show off your work using other techniques try this thread

https://www.lightfighter.net/to...painted-rifle-thread

       

I'm assuming this is aimed at me since I posted last... This should be in the right thread. Pats ideas and tutorial are what I used to paint my rifle. The only difference being the paint used. 
I've been following this forum long enough now to begin to realize where most things are and how things are run. I appreciate the help though. Since your a fellow Seattler, enjoy this amazing weather we are having this weekend, instead of the rain... 
Rossi
Last edited by Community Member
Originally Posted by Bill Huntley Jr.:

4track, what colors did you use? I love your camo pattern and colors. And would like to copy something close to it.

 

Thanks.

 

I have a few different walk throughs, in the I Blame Stephen thread (about mid way down each page), which detail my color pallet and technique:

 

https://www.lightfighter.net/to...rifle-thread?page=47

 

https://www.lightfighter.net/to...rifle-thread?page=50

 

 

I do it a little bit differently from Pat, but his method is faster, easier, more field expedient, and highly effective.

 

My way requires a bit more time and materials, and is probably best for the Arts-N-Crafts, OCD crowd:

 

 

 

Last edited by Community Member
Originally Posted by Bill Huntley Jr.:

4track, What colors did you use? I want to do my M&P 15-22 FDE-MAGPUL MOE like yours. You used Aervoe paint right? What colors and what type of stencils you made and used?

 

Look, I am not trying to sound like a total dick, here, but….really?  

 

Four posts above this one, you asked me this exact same question, and in response, I went out of my way to answer you as helpfully as I could. 

 

I provided you with links and information on my materials and technique, which are discussed in detail, with step-by-step instructions and photographs, in the appropriate weapons painting thread.  

 

If my initial response was insufficient, then you could have sent me a private Dialogue message.

 

This entire thread…all thirteen pages of it... is entirely about Pat's method of weapons painting.

 

Let's try to keep the discussion on that subject, please.

Last edited by Community Member

I used Aervoe #977, Sand; 992, Marine Corps Green; 968, Field Drab; 999, Earth Brown; and mostly Pat's Book.  I only deviated from the specific colors Pat used because Brwonell's didn't have them all; and didn't use a template, mainly because I couldn't decide what to use.  After spraying the base of Sand, I used MC Green next, then Earth Brown, and Field Drab to blend them all together.  With MCG and EB, I tried to spray either a spot; or across the gun to break up the length of the gun. 

 

I took the springs and followers out of the mags for painting because they're exposed and I didn't want to gum up the delicate, wimpy little springs. 

 

De-greasing, taping and painting took about an hour.  Now, almost 24 hours later, everything is still the slightest bit tacky, but it's pretty humid.

 

I started with the M&P 15-22 just to get some experience on a cheaper gun. It was very fast & easy.  I envisioned it being a little more green, but overall I'm happy with the result and plan on painting 2 or 3 more. 

 

 IMG_1920  IMG_1921

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Last edited by Community Member
Originally Posted by Tropleo:
Nice!!!! Looks clean and even

Thanks. It was really simple, the paint has rubbed off a tad in a couple of spots already but I just grabbed the rattle cans and touched up those areas. Didn't even mess with masking. Just a quick spray over the spots and it was ready to go. Since it was simple and relativity inexpensive I don't get too spooled up if it wears off. 

Has anyone had any problem with cans of Aervoe not working after a few minutes of usage?  I tried to paint my FAL today and of 7 cans 6 ceased spraying after a few seconds.  The only one to work successfully was the foliage green I used as a base coat.

The A/N store I got them from said they have had a few returns, including a previous can of FG.  They returned that one.  I dont want to have them return all these cans if there is something else.

I transported the cans in a tall .50 ammo can today, straight to the range.  I doubt the heat could cause problems, could it?

Thanks fellas.  It is damned disappointing because I sure do like the way the colors look, and my FAL was sure starting to get a good camo scheme going.  That said I am not interested in spending anymore money on their paints if the cans dont work.  I'd just assume use Krylon under the theory that some camo is better than no camo.

I have sent them an email, and will wait for a response  before committing either way.

I got contact from Aervoe, and boy was it positive.  I supplied them with the colors and batch codes.  Some of my cans were 3 years old, and according to Aervoe rep, they have a 2 year shelf life.  I was also told that cans in storage need to be shaken every once in a while so that the resin doesnt "solidify" in the can.  When this occurs the resin settles at the bottom of the can in a sort of glob.  When somebody finally uses the product and shakes the can, the pellet breaks up the glob and a bunch of little globs are created.  These get caught in the tip, and get kind of compacted.

 

He wanted to ship replacements, but I passed.  Considering their concern and the way they have handled it with me so far, I will try their "fix" first.  Remove the tip, just the tip, and dip it in acetone and perhaps run some wire in it.  Turn can upside down and shake for several minutes, up to ten.  This will hopefully smash up the globs.  If that doesnt work, only then will I seek a return.

 

I hope this helps those with similar issues.  BTW, the rep I am working with is Kieran Creek.

Last edited by Community Member

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