Okay, time to admit I like RDS, and the pistol carbine should be an emulation of my 5.56 guns instead of something amusingly retro. Flat top, and a 7" alpha rail.  

Since mine is pretty cheap, it only looks like a Colt at a distance, but runs like a top, I am gonna take it apart so I keep the bolt and barrel and so on. 

Questions: 

  • If I don't need a fixed front sight, I can just not put the FSB back, right? No gas system so it doesn't do anything but be a sight right? 
  • I am gonna do the gas diverter and half-sized dustcover. Since it will be random clutter, does anyone make a truly slick sided (no fwd assist, no brass deflector) upper with a pic rail? 
  • Do I need to time the barrel nut as though it has a gas tube passing through, or just tighten to the specified torque and not worry about where exactly it ends up? 
  • Anything else tricky to assemble a "subgun" upper I haven't though about? 

The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life. – Theodore Roosevelt

 

Joined: 19NOV2004   Location: Mission, Kansas

It’s been a while since you posted shoobie so you may have found your answers. 

1. You are good without a FSB, a number of PCC barrels don’t even have the option. 

2.  Nordic components and dpms have completely slick options but don’t have dust cover options either. On the quality side CMT is probably your answer if you can find one, on the cheaper side maybe look at the midway/AR stoner brand. They have billet options that are slick sided with dust cover, they also have a dedicated PCC upper which is what I built mine on.  

3. Timing may or may not matter depending on the barrel nut/rail interface. Depending on what model Troy rail I believe you will still have to time the nut.  

4. I didn’t run into anything specific running a dedicated new frontier/joe bobs lower and dedicated PCC upper but PCCs can be notoriously picky, there’s a guide somewhere on barrel length to buffer weight recommendation  but I can’t find it now. 

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Originally Posted by DocGKR:

       
This is why LE in some areas would be better served with belt fed weapons and flame throwers...

       

Joined: 5.23.2009
Location: WA/ Canadian border

Nope, haven't found anything yet but to be clear: I was only going to change the receiver itself. So the barrel, bolt, everything stays the same and barring some oddity I cannot imagine, it should run just as well as it does now. Which is weirdly fine. Same mag latch and buffer for 5.56 suppressed/not, .300 suppressed/not, and 9 mm. It's a miracle. Don't jinx it!  

Good note on the float tube clamping to the nut. The rail probably times by the nut being properly timed, or something, so I'll do it like there's a gas tube. 

The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life. – Theodore Roosevelt

 

Joined: 19NOV2004   Location: Mission, Kansas

Take a look at the Cross machine    UPUR-4, should be what you need. 

-------------------------------------

Originally Posted by DocGKR:

       
This is why LE in some areas would be better served with belt fed weapons and flame throwers...

       

Joined: 5.23.2009
Location: WA/ Canadian border

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