Any thoughts on the Holosun 508 and 509? Both appear to be newer, yea?  One is a closed design.  I’m coming from a gen 1 RMR.  Considering something new that needs to be duty read on a g45 mos.  

I’m cross shopping DPP, Holosun and RMR 2.  

I have a 508T (V1) mounted on a GEN 5 Glock 19 MOS using a C&H Precision Weapons adapter plate (V3).  I only have 600 rounds fired, but so far everything has remained tight and zero maintained.  I went from a RMR Type 2 to the 508T for the Holosun circle dot reticle.  I had significant visual distortion with the RMR Type 1 and Type 2 dot (and every other dot for that matter).  The circle dot reticle on the Holosun is a clear image for some reason.  I found the auto brightness mode on the Holosun to not really work for me.  Usually too dim or too bright depending on light conditions.  I have it set to manual brightness.  I have not noticed any lag time on the auto off feature.  A couple of other points.  The first 508T I received was dead on arrival.  It was replaced with no hassle.   There is a 508T V2 that was announced at Shot Show.  Biggest difference is side battery load vs bottom.  I preordered the 509T a month ago and within the last week it went from shipping in days to shipping in months.  I’m guessing the same will hold true for the 508T V2.  I suspect that due to virus related supply chain issues, we won’t see these products for a while.  Also, we may see existing stock dwindle as supply lags.  I picked up an additional 508T V1 in the meantime.  BTW, this is a non-duty use setup.  Hope this helps a bit.

Also, C&H has a V4 adapter plate that is supposed to drop in April. 

Last edited by Bucknut

I think my next purchases will be the 509T and the 507K. I have a 507c on my 19MOS and its been great even with the stock MOS cut no plate (not saying the plate isnt probably a better idea.)

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one?  Does the MOS not coming with what is needed? 

 

I'm definitely curious on the 508V2 and 509.  509 especially so, though, I'm curious about holster fit with the larger footprint.  I'm a fan of battery life, as that is one thing making me skeptical about the DPP.  

Last edited by 68WhiskeyNCoke

I'm running two 508T's on stock MOS plates for Gen 4 Glock 17 and  a Gen 4 Glock 19. Both have been on for a couple of months and so far, other than having to shit can the original batteries, both have been stellar. I ordered direct from the factory and got them with the LE programing module which locks out the auto adjust and the shake awake.  Holosun's officer purchase program is outstanding and the guys involved are great to work with.

We right now authorize the 508T, the DPP, and the RMR. All will remain authorized but we purchased 508T's for the entire Department  immediately before the first of the year.

My 19 has only a few hundred rounds downrange but the 17 has quite a few more and as I said, both have been outstanding albeit with a sample size of 2 personally with about 20 in the Dept. We are going to detail track the Dept issue so I'll have better data probably by the end of the year. We will have 140+ in issue by then.

 

68WhiskeyNCoke posted:

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one?  Does the MOS not coming with what is needed? 

Some people have complained the Glock parts are not the best design. Thread engagement is not the best seems to be a common complaint.

I have seen a lot of complaints about the plates warping or breaking. From some of the images I have seen it looks like installer error on some but not all.

After having a slide done by Agency Arms I think that is the way to go. I just bought a new Gen5 and once I put a few more rounds through it to make sure it is good to go I am going to send that slide out to them.

Joined: 3/27/09          Location: Back in MA for now

EzGoingKev posted:
68WhiskeyNCoke posted:

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one?  Does the MOS not coming with what is needed? 

Some people have complained the Glock parts are not the best design. Thread engagement is not the best seems to be a common complaint.

I have seen a lot of complaints about the plates warping or breaking. From some of the images I have seen it looks like installer error on some but not all.

After having a slide done by Agency Arms I think that is the way to go. I just bought a new Gen5 and once I put a few more rounds through it to make sure it is good to go I am going to send that slide out to them.

The OEM Glock MOS plates also don’t completely cover/seal the bottom on the RMR as they are sized to the slide, serrations and all.

The CHPWS plate is wider than the slide and matches the footprint of the RMR/Holosuns. 

-----------------------------------

What is left when honor is lost?

In the last week or so I have seen sales popping up all over the place for the gen 1 Holosun sights, as it looks like they are clearing stock to make room for the V2 versions.

I have 2 507C's and 1 407C. The 507's are on my G45 and P10 (both with milled slides) and the 407 is on a Canik SFX. I've got a couple of thousand rounds on each of those and I have had zero issues. The G45 is my carry gun at work now.  I am planning to swap over to a 508T V2 for work and pick up a 507K and have my G48 milled for it.

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries.  Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed. 

-----------------------------------

What is left when honor is lost?

Last edited by TheTick
TheTick posted:

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries.  Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed. 

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Because most people are stupid, dumb, feckless morons, that's why. - Standeasy

68WhiskeyNCoke posted:

Any thoughts on the Holosun 508 and 509? Both appear to be newer, yea?  One is a closed design.  I’m coming from a gen 1 RMR.  Considering something new that needs to be duty read on a g45 mos.  

I’m cross shopping DPP, Holosun and RMR 2.  

The holosun uses a different emitter than the RMR, which for many results in a crisper dot, myself included. I have astigmatism and most dots are blurry to my eye, but the Holosun is crisp. I use a v1 407 and it's one of my favorite optics, I don't really see a need for the titanium housing at this point.

I have a 509T on pre-order with Holosun, but who knows when I'll see it. Nice thing is it comes with an RMR footprint adapter so no additional slide work is needed.

For the ones you have listed I would go Holosun > DPP > RMR. ACRO is my favorite, but also one of the most expensive.

In Valor There Is Hope

Skandar posted:
TheTick posted:

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries.  Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed. 

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Just another battery to manage. You get the benefit of not having to remove the optic for changes though, I see it as a net gain. Even though I'll now need to manage 3 different batteries.

In Valor There Is Hope

TheTick posted:
EzGoingKev posted:
68WhiskeyNCoke posted:

In regards to adapter plates, why are you using an aftermarket one?  Does the MOS not coming with what is needed? 

Some people have complained the Glock parts are not the best design. Thread engagement is not the best seems to be a common complaint.

I have seen a lot of complaints about the plates warping or breaking. From some of the images I have seen it looks like installer error on some but not all.

After having a slide done by Agency Arms I think that is the way to go. I just bought a new Gen5 and once I put a few more rounds through it to make sure it is good to go I am going to send that slide out to them.

The OEM Glock MOS plates also don’t completely cover/seal the bottom on the RMR as they are sized to the slide, serrations and all.

The CHPWS plate is wider than the slide and matches the footprint of the RMR/Holosuns. 

The CHPWS plate is an absolute win. Solves all the issues I had with the OEM Glock mounting plate. Worth every penny.  They have a great good guy discount and they will send you out a T&E model to check out.

__________________________________
"Experienced cops don't have 'hunches'. They have superior observational and analytical skills which allow them to make the connection between otherwise innocuous facts, and take appropriate action to assess that perception."

~ Doug Mitchell

 

Life is Good!


Joined: 03/08/2008     Location: Sandy Hook, NJ

scsu74 posted:
Skandar posted:
TheTick posted:

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries.  Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed. 

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Just another battery to manage. You get the benefit of not having to remove the optic for changes though, I see it as a net gain. Even though I'll now need to manage 3 different batteries.

Thank you, sir!

I have a first gen that will be coming with my milled slide, so 2032 battery for that one. I'm thinking I'll just put replacements in the optic box they're meant for. This will be my first, so presuming I like it there will be more, but probably the V2, so this should help with the management issue.

Related question about battery shelf life. With the Holosun's claiming 5+ years, what's shelf life on the replacements? If I plan to change out the battery say every two years (presuming it lasts as advertised), should I wait to buy the new battery for a while, or just get a couple spares now, stow it and forget it until needed?

Because most people are stupid, dumb, feckless morons, that's why. - Standeasy

Was at the LGS shipping out something that none of you would buy off me, and they had these right on the shelf: 

https://www.sccy.com/handguns/cpx-1rd/

https://www.sccy.com/handguns/cpx-3rd/

SCCY is shipping pistols not RDS-ready, but RDS-installed. The Crimson Trace sights, no experience with those myself, but... this could be a game changer  

No really. Marketing wise, whether SCCY makes out well or it changes the whole conversation, people who can walk in and try and buy a ready-to-go gun with an RDS. 

The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life. – Theodore Roosevelt

 

Joined: 19NOV2004   Location: Mission, Kansas

Got the 507C from Holosun and my milled slide back from Defensive Creations. Very happy with the look of the plate from Chambers and the milling from DC. Hope to get it out to the range and sighted in this weekend. 

As a side note, when an LFer asked via text what gun I was putting the 507C on, and I said 1911, in LF fashion he replied "Boomer Gat". So from this point forward it will be known as Boomer Gat.

---------------------------------

 

The .45-70 is the only government I trust

 

 

Joined: 1/30/06 3:34 PM - Location:MA

Brownells is selling 407c for $189.99

-----------------------------------

What is left when honor is lost?

 
Skandar posted:
scsu74 posted:
Skandar posted:
TheTick posted:

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries.  Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed. 

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Just another battery to manage. You get the benefit of not having to remove the optic for changes though, I see it as a net gain. Even though I'll now need to manage 3 different batteries.

Thank you, sir!

I have a first gen that will be coming with my milled slide, so 2032 battery for that one. I'm thinking I'll just put replacements in the optic box they're meant for. This will be my first, so presuming I like it there will be more, but probably the V2, so this should help with the management issue.

Related question about battery shelf life. With the Holosun's claiming 5+ years, what's shelf life on the replacements? If I plan to change out the battery say every two years (presuming it lasts as advertised), should I wait to buy the new battery for a while, or just get a couple spares now, stow it and forget it until needed?

I recommend having a few spares on hand. Once upon a time I put a fresh battery into my optic at the hotel the night before training. There I was standing outside the shoothouse in Alliance the next day when I turned on my PRO to.... nothing.  I made the run on irons and then got bailed out by one of the instructors luckily having a 1/3n battery.  Sheer luck as not a lot of things use 1/3n.  

I would most certainly do it if I had the upcoming V2s from Holosun as the new battery size isn’t anywhere near as common as a 2032. 

Anyway- I got an email today that I’m lucky enough to be in the evaluation cadre for the CHPWS V4 plate. The details of it sound pretty sweet. 

-----------------------------------

What is left when honor is lost?

Last edited by TheTick

Damn, bad luck brother Tick. Another time there, you unintentionally taught me the importance of rifle-to-pistol transitions.

Joined: 30 May 2003                  Location: SE PA

hile posted:

Damn, bad luck brother Tick. Another time there, you unintentionally taught me the importance of rifle-to-pistol transitions.

Yeah, shit I remember that. My rifle jammed so I pulled the blaster and made a good shot into the adjoining room. I should have walked off on top.

Come to think of it... I’ve had shitty luck in that shoothouse especially if you include when the bee stuck me on the fucking neck in there.

WTF?

-----------------------------------

What is left when honor is lost?

Skandar posted:
scsu74 posted:
Skandar posted:
TheTick posted:

I’m not digging the departure from 2032 batteries.  Are they doing that with all future batches?

If so, I may go to the RMR if/when my 407c (about 2,500 rounds) eventually shits the bed. 

I'm not up on battery knowledge. What's the downside?

Just another battery to manage. You get the benefit of not having to remove the optic for changes though, I see it as a net gain. Even though I'll now need to manage 3 different batteries.

Thank you, sir!

I have a first gen that will be coming with my milled slide, so 2032 battery for that one. I'm thinking I'll just put replacements in the optic box they're meant for. This will be my first, so presuming I like it there will be more, but probably the V2, so this should help with the management issue.

Related question about battery shelf life. With the Holosun's claiming 5+ years, what's shelf life on the replacements? If I plan to change out the battery say every two years (presuming it lasts as advertised), should I wait to buy the new battery for a while, or just get a couple spares now, stow it and forget it until needed?

Most just change on a landmark date like 1st of the year or birthday, that way you never come close to it dying

In Valor There Is Hope

Well, I am about to take the plunge with a Heckler & Koch VP9 2000 with an Aimpoint ACRO mounted via an Aimpoint mounting plate.

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the ACRO to the mounting plate?

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the mounting plate to the slide?

Thank you for your advice.

Tony

Tony, I've always used blue locktite; however looking at directions for something similar (Dawson's DUO mount for the staccato P), Dave Dawson suggests (and ships) 262 (red) and uses an incredibly small amount. In his instruction video he states something along the lines that 262 comes loose when you want it to, rather than when it wants to. 

Joined: 30 May 2003                  Location: SE PA

A lot of folks who know way more than I do suggest vibra-tite. That said, I have LT blue, red, and green on my bench as well as Vibra-tite. I havent had an issue with any

Location: North Carolina

I don't run Locktite on my RMR screws on my glock. Instead, I put a dot of dark-colored nail polish from my wife's stash on top of the screw, bridging the seam between the head of the screw and the RMR body. It has held up great for 2+ years now (replacing the polish after battery swaps), and not only keeps the screw from walking loose, but is also a visual indicator of it coming out when the blob breaks. 

I tried blue locktite on the screws when I first got it, but still had issues with them coming loose. I was afraid to put any extra torque on the screws and risk wrecking the threads on the slide, as my Glock is set up for direct mounting of the RMR (no adapter/plate).

Last edited by WoodenPlank
CWM11B posted:

A lot of folks who know way more than I do suggest vibra-tite. That said, I have LT blue, red, and green on my bench as well as Vibra-tite. I havent had an issue with any

Be advised there are two greens - one is between blue and red. The other is a bearing and stud retaining compound. If you use the second stuff you will never get it apart.

I use the low strength pink on small screws and have never had a problem.

Joined: 3/27/09          Location: Back in MA for now

I have at least three greens in my shop 

Loctite is complex. Colors are re-used, to confuse us. Use numbers instead to be sure what you are getting.

While not exactly a lay guide, so not easy to understand in full, this is the best anyone has given me to figure out which to use where. The list on page 9 is pretty complete, others are shorthand, most-used ones. 

The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life. – Theodore Roosevelt

 

Joined: 19NOV2004   Location: Mission, Kansas

Attachments

Last edited by shoobe01
shoobe01 posted:

I have at least three greens in my shop 

Loctite is complex. Colors are re-used, to confuse us. Use numbers instead to be sure what you are getting.

While not exactly a lay guide, so not easy to understand in full, this is the best anyone has given me to figure out which to use where. The list on page 9 is pretty complete, others are shorthand, most-used ones. 

first, I'm no officially trained armorer, mechanic etc ... I'm a shade tree of all these skills, that said, I have spent a lot of time cursing in the shade of a tree OJT'ing these skills  

My OJT lessons on LocTite "colors".

I use LocTite blue, "medium". I haven't had a problem so far on weapons.  Super low sample size, of course, but I do run my gear pretty hard for a civilian training. Several thousands of rounds per year between rifle and pistol (more pistol using pRDO) and haven't had a problem. I'm very paranoid about nuts/bolts/screws from my time in Naval Aviation wire wrapping nuts on to make sure they don't fall off. I check my screws/bolts/nuts before and after events to make sure they are secure and "blue" has never let loose on me.  FWIW.

I DID have a problem with LocTite Red High Strength.... HOLY SHIT .... I almost passed out trying to get it off before using a heat gun.  I didn't know about "permanent" and the heat gun thing (see shade tree) but I'm built like a gorilla and know my way around breaker bars, prior to this event never met a bolt I couldn't get off ... well, learning occurred.

Rifle barrel nut, in vise, breaker bar (country boy assist) and a LOT of huffing and puffing ... NOTHING.

I read the FUCK out of the LocTite when I buy it in the store now to make sure I don't buy or use the permanent stuff unless I KNOW I want it.

If I put "red" on any of those tiny PRDO screws, I'm not sure if it can be taken off without destroying it. If I made that mistake I would probably walk it to a real armorer and see if they could manage.

viking_overlord posted:
shoobe01 posted:

 

...

...I DID have a problem with LocTite Red High Strength.... HOLY SHIT .... I almost passed out trying to get it off before using a heat gun.  I didn't know about "permanent" and the heat gun thing (see shade tree)...

If you need to heat a screw to release it, at the scale we're talking on guns at least, try a soldering iron. Put the tip on the screw itself, wait just a few seconds, then hit it with the driver. 

And avoid Red (271, but I prefer sticks for most so 268 here) for pretty much anything gun scale. You'll strip the screws before you realize it needs heat, then you are drilling. I would guess. I have certainly never had to drill out a stripped screw on an MRDS, then because it's a plastic case, ovaled the hole. Nope. Not me. 

The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life. – Theodore Roosevelt

 

Joined: 19NOV2004   Location: Mission, Kansas

Last edited by shoobe01
shoobe01 posted:
viking_overlord posted:
shoobe01 posted:

 

...

...I DID have a problem with LocTite Red High Strength.... HOLY SHIT .... I almost passed out trying to get it off before using a heat gun.  I didn't know about "permanent" and the heat gun thing (see shade tree)...

If you need to heat a screw to release it, at the scale we're talking on guns at least, try a soldering iron. Put the tip on the screw itself, wait just a few seconds, then hit it with the driver. 

And avoid Red (271, but I prefer sticks for most so 268 here) for pretty much anything gun scale. You'll strip the screws before you realize it needs heat, then you are drilling. I would guess. I have certainly never had to drill out a stripped screw on an MRDS, then because it's a plastic case, ovaled the hole. Nope. Not me. 

nice ! So simple and easy and I just happen to have a soldering iron. LF for the win ! amazing amount of collective knowledge on this forum !

Antonius posted:

Well, I am about to take the plunge with a Heckler & Koch VP9 2000 with an Aimpoint ACRO mounted via an Aimpoint mounting plate.

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the ACRO to the mounting plate?

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the mounting plate to the slide?

Thank you for your advice.

Tony

Vibratite VC3, loctite is no good for optic mounting. if the ACRO plate doesn't come with Torx screws I recommend replacing them.

In Valor There Is Hope

Does anyone know what type of screws H&K is using to secure the cover plate?

Whatever they are that size is not in my toolbox.  The manual says 2.5mm, but it doesn’t look like anything I have found at the hardware store.

Also, any suggestions on a good socket wrench with adjustable torque levels?

Thanks,

Tony

That appears to be torx.

Joined: 30 May 2003                  Location: SE PA

Try a T-15 or a T-10. 

Do a solid for your self and buy quality torx bits, your sanity will thank you later.

Location: in SE Idaho, the birthplace of television.  And Epstein didn't kill himself...

scsu74 posted:
Antonius posted:

Well, I am about to take the plunge with a Heckler & Koch VP9 2000 with an Aimpoint ACRO mounted via an Aimpoint mounting plate.

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the ACRO to the mounting plate?

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the mounting plate to the slide?

Thank you for your advice.

Tony

Vibratite VC3, loctite is no good for optic mounting. if the ACRO plate doesn't come with Torx screws I recommend replacing them.

I'm unfamiliar with vibratite beyond googling it just now. Can you elaborate?

Because most people are stupid, dumb, feckless morons, that's why. - Standeasy

You called it M. Wilson.

It was a T-15 Torx.

I bought a small Craftsman socket wrench set at Ace to hold me over until I can get a better more gun oriented set.

So the Aimpoint mounting plate is mounted and the Loctite is taking a set.  I will try Vibratite on the next mounting, but I am attempting to get the ACRO mounted and zeroed before TACON so I can take Scott Jedlinski’s 4-hour Pistol Red Dot course.

Tony

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