Antonius posted:

Does anyone know what type of screws H&K is using to secure the cover plate?

Whatever they are that size is not in my toolbox.  The manual says 2.5mm, but it doesn’t look like anything I have found at the hardware store.

Also, any suggestions on a good socket wrench with adjustable torque levels?

Thanks,

Tony

The fat wrench on Amazon has been great for me, I recommend the expanded bit set. Just be sure not to use it to loosen.

Skandar posted:
scsu74 posted:
Antonius posted:

Well, I am about to take the plunge with a Heckler & Koch VP9 2000 with an Aimpoint ACRO mounted via an Aimpoint mounting plate.

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the ACRO to the mounting plate?

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the mounting plate to the slide?

Thank you for your advice.

Tony

Vibratite VC3, loctite is no good for optic mounting. if the ACRO plate doesn't come with Torx screws I recommend replacing them.

I'm unfamiliar with vibratite beyond googling it just now. Can you elaborate?

Basically red is too strong, blue doesn't last long term and is incorrect due to how fine the threads are on the optic screws. Vibratite is also a different compound and formulated for shock (recoil) so holds up better. You can also remove and re-torque up to 5x I believe without re-application.

scsu74 posted:
Skandar posted:
scsu74 posted:
Antonius posted:

Well, I am about to take the plunge with a Heckler & Koch VP9 2000 with an Aimpoint ACRO mounted via an Aimpoint mounting plate.

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the ACRO to the mounting plate?

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the mounting plate to the slide?

Thank you for your advice.

Tony

Vibratite VC3, loctite is no good for optic mounting. if the ACRO plate doesn't come with Torx screws I recommend replacing them.

I'm unfamiliar with vibratite beyond googling it just now. Can you elaborate?

Basically red is too strong, blue doesn't last long term and is incorrect due to how fine the threads are on the optic screws. Vibratite is also a different compound and formulated for shock (recoil) so holds up better. You can also remove and re-torque up to 5x I believe without re-application.

Thank you, sir!

Skandar posted:
scsu74 posted:
Skandar posted:
scsu74 posted:
Antonius posted:

Well, I am about to take the plunge with a Heckler & Koch VP9 2000 with an Aimpoint ACRO mounted via an Aimpoint mounting plate.

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the ACRO to the mounting plate?

Which type of Loctite would be best for attaching the mounting plate to the slide?

Thank you for your advice.

Tony

Vibratite VC3, loctite is no good for optic mounting. if the ACRO plate doesn't come with Torx screws I recommend replacing them.

I'm unfamiliar with vibratite beyond googling it just now. Can you elaborate?

Basically red is too strong, blue doesn't last long term and is incorrect due to how fine the threads are on the optic screws. Vibratite is also a different compound and formulated for shock (recoil) so holds up better. You can also remove and re-torque up to 5x I believe without re-application.

Thank you, sir!

Agree ... thanks ! I've been doing it wrong this entire time.

If it's been stated before, I apologize, but what is the recommended torque value? Mark Housel told me just to hand tighten it (he did my M&P a while back, and I havent had to remove  it for a battery change yet) but I would feel better using a torque wrench on it.

scsu74 posted:
Antonius posted:

Does anyone know what type of screws H&K is using to secure the cover plate?

Whatever they are that size is not in my toolbox.  The manual says 2.5mm, but it doesn’t look like anything I have found at the hardware store.

Also, any suggestions on a good socket wrench with adjustable torque levels?

Thanks,

Tony

The fat wrench on Amazon has been great for me, I recommend the expanded bit set. Just be sure not to use it to loosen.

Yes, the Fat Wrench is great. Also, per the instructions, remember to "unwind" the screwdriver torque setting when you are done using it. 

Also, does anyone know the right size screws for a Mark Housel RMR install on a glock 17? I lost one of those darn things.  ANSWERED IN MINUTES BY MARK HOUSEL! "They are 6-40x1/2 screws with the right hand screw shortened to ~.415 to
clear the extractor plunger."

Final question, after hearing about the less fuzzy dot with the holosun's, does anyone know what a 7 or 8 year old RMR RM02 8.0 MOA dot sight is worth if I unload it for a holosun?

Last edited by Community Member
556223 posted:

Trijicon recommends 15-20 in/lbs.

If you have some type of mounting plate that has posts with internal threads the thread size is going to be smaller. Smaller threads use less torque. For example, Agency Arms specifies 10 inch lbs for their plate setup.

scsu74 posted:
Antonius posted:

Does anyone know what type of screws H&K is using to secure the cover plate?

Whatever they are that size is not in my toolbox.  The manual says 2.5mm, but it doesn’t look like anything I have found at the hardware store.

Also, any suggestions on a good socket wrench with adjustable torque levels?

Thanks,

Tony

The fat wrench on Amazon has been great for me, I recommend the expanded bit set. Just be sure not to use it to loosen.

@Community Member can you verify the FAT wrench comes with a T-10 Torx? The one on Midway lists it, but the one on Amazon does not.

viking_overlord posted:

I'm unfamiliar with vibratite beyond googling it just now. Can you elaborate?

Basically red is too strong, blue doesn't last long term and is incorrect due to how fine the threads are on the optic screws. Vibratite is also a different compound and formulated for shock (recoil) so holds up better. You can also remove and re-torque up to 5x I believe without re-application.

Thank you, sir!

Agree ... thanks ! I've been doing it wrong this entire time.

With the Vibratite, don't put it on too thick or too close to the end of the screw. Since it's thicker than Locktite, you'll want to have a clean thread or two to be able to start the screw.

 

Anybody have an opinion on fix it sticks as far as torque wrenches? I just read about them recently and their all in one driver looks promising. I've already got plenty of drivers and bits, so I dont need any more of those

I thought I posted that above but maybe not. Got a set on a group buy from another forum. Quite like the torque limiters at least. My general suggestion for most of this work now. 

And for anyone wondering what bits come with a kit, Who cares? They are standard hex drive, separately buy the proper drivers as needed. 

You very well may have. I cant keep up with shig these days!

Do you prefer the individual limiters or the all in one? My SEWAG is the individual are likely to be more accurate and durable,  but I dont know.

I was more apologizing if I duplicated myself than trying to chastise anyone for reading. 

I have a Sears adjustable in-lb torque wrench, used for years. But love the individual torque limiters because they are fixed. Grab, go. No chance I mess up reading adjustments, forget, or just get lazy because e.g. a scope mounting takes THREE different torque settings. Presets makes me more likely to use them every time.

And to not overthink. 72 in-lb? 75 is close enough! Then, I am sure I am consistent between work.  

Haven't calibrated but I trust because the more I use proper torque on everything, the more I find everything repeatable. Most recently, took the Sig (rifle) apart /completely/. Sandblast, refinish, etc. When put back together the M4 is like 2 clicks off zero. I like that stuff.

My kit: 

No, it didn't come with batteries or the hemostats, or 1-2 of the driver bits, but otherwise this is what I got.

No, I do not recall which one it is. And the bits are just okay (short, but are to spec at least), the bag is only useful if you will go into the field with it. So, buying smaller kits or individual parts is also reasonable to me. 

Only thing I hate is the bits it came with are VERY slick and the holder is VERY tight, so I included the hemostats to remove bits in the field. I do have this in my precision rifle bag as my toolkit for zeroing etc, but use it on the bench at home as well for the torque limiters.  

If anyone will be using this, or anything similar, at a workbench full time or storing in a toolbox, these are 100% what I suggest for bit storage: 

My CZ P07 came back from ATEI today. They mounted an Aimpoint ACRO for me using their Shimsight for the rear.   I will hopefully get to start working it on Saturday.

I've really in enjoyed my Raven Eidolon and Vedder Light Tuck holsters, I also have a couple of Tier 1 Axis Slim holsters when I anticipate needing my SF 300 light.

I've got a Raven, Roland Special strong side (right) for a full up G19 and light, can work IWB or OWB. 

For both  a G19 with RMR and an M&P .45 4" RMR and ACRO, a JM Kydex AIWB with wedge works. 

Realize not a G17 response, but maybe close enough to get the drift. 

YMMV 

I've had really good results with the Dark Star Gear Orion for just the gun and the Phlster Floodlight and Bawidiman Gotham for guns with WMLs carried AIWB. The Gotham was a little more comfortable, but the Floodlight was easier to get the cant adjusted just right. 

I don't carry appendix (too much spare tire right now to be comfortable with that for sure), but my first choice is a floodlight. And, in fact,  I use that strong side.

High Exposure posted:

Tenicor. Totally Amazeballs.

Using both the Velo (I have 2) and a Sagax Lux (for a G19 w/ Holosun and a TLR7a).

I have a Tenicor Certum Lux for my G19. I like it.

I looked the Sagax Lux and it looks like the side opposite of the clips has a huge bulge. Does it or is it just the way the pics make it look? If it does, what is the purpose?

EzGoingKev posted:

The word on the internet is Aimpoint released a Gen2 Acro that is supposed to have improved battery life over the previous version.

Can anyone confirm this?

At SHOT, none of those in the know that I spoke with said that and it had been rumored pre-SHOT. I did have someone on P-F insist that the people at the Aimpoint booth told him that very thing though.

What I have heard ... and I imagine there are a couple of people who could fix my errors or expand on it ... Aimpoint did end up with a new supplier of LEDs and "some" re-do of the wiring (Or Something Like That) happened. The combination of the two has extended battery life.

Now, could things have changed since SHOT? Sure, but my specific question to every optics manf I spoke with was whether or not they intended to release anything new before summer because of classes I'm doing in July & August. Most said no, one said yes.

Last edited by Community Member

Friend came by to use his skills and stuff he borrowed from the shop to fix something at the house, let me play with his pretty new P10F with newer Holosun... I forget which. You'll know if you are in the market. A few shots for those who care, some next to my M&P 1.0 CORE with JPoint, FWIW. 

I also tried his holster, put a laser snapcap in and "shot" things in the basement. but... didn't get to the range. This is as fun as things get now. 

It has been too long since I shot my pistol:

I use the SIRT for dryfire, etc. so if not shooting, no reason to pull it out of the holster. Eeek. Clean (er) now. Don't worry. 

Good God Shoobie, how long was that pistol in the holster!!!

Only ask, because lately my BUGs have been pocket carried and after a few weeks pulled them out of the holsters (BFG) and no fault of the holster,mad a shit ton of dust and God knows what skin waste on them.  I have no doubt that they would have functioned, but I cleaned them today, none the less (642 and G43). 

Short lesson, check the shit your life might depend on. 

Last edited by Community Member
shoobe01 posted:

It has been too long since I shot my pistol

I use the SIRT for dryfire, etc. so if not shooting, no reason to pull it out of the holster. Eeek. Clean (er) now. Don't worry. 

This ^^^ is one concern with IWB/AIWB carry. Lint, crap, & crud all finds its way in to the holster & the optic lens. Oh joy!

Good reminder.

So this has only been carry most (not all) days, for about the last 6 weeks. Normally, I will shoot every week or two at least. But good reminder that unusual situations are unusual and the gun might need more than just the optic dust-off while in the holster. 

I also am not concerned about it inducing stoppages. It's not yet chunks, and not near any mechanisms that could admit it.

Which I say because I did have/induce a stoppage from lint once. I still carry spare mags mostly just in a pocket. Separate discussion if you hate me for that Anyway, one time pulled out the spare mag at the range (to switch to training ammo) and there's a full on dust bunny perched merrily on top of the first round. Went to knock it off and thought: no, that happened. Let's burn some good hollowpoints and see what it does. 

Worked. Once. Lint got knocked down to between the first and second rounds somehow, then after the first shot of that mag got between the breechface and chamber face, gun wouldn't go into battery. Pretty non-obviously, as well. And, it's lint. Didn't eject itself on normal stoppage drill. Didn't fall away on more intensive ones with gravity or multiple slide cycles. Had to be locked-open, found, and picked out with a finger.

So, now I have little sleeves over my pocket (or fannypack, etc) carried mags, always check the bottom of mag pouches before inserting mags (I have absolutely found crap accumulated in them) and try to keep the gun itself clean enough chunks won't get in the operating components. 

Not shooting for a while snuck up on me. 

Last month I changed the battery on an RMR, mounted on a 4" S&W M&P .45. It had a good run on the battery, but during that run, I switches from a Milt Sparks leather holster at 4 o'clock to a JM Kydex, AIWB.  Took off the RMR and found light surface rust on the slide, under the RMR. 

Have not seen that on prior battery changes.  Rust wiped off with a little Slip 2000 .  One more thing to consider. 

I thought the S&W slides were stainless with a nitride finish?  Does your gun have the sealing plate under the RDS?  Is it possible the rust is from it or the RDS itself?  I'm sure that if the RDS had a rust issue, you'd have seen it when you popped in the new battery, but you know what they say about assumptions.

One way to keep stuff out of your gun is to seal it in the holster: I wish I had a camera with me all the time back in the day. c1990, the fatbodies who came to empty the safe at the drugstore way back when had, apparently, not removed their Model 10s from the holster in decades. 

The guns were much the same color as the holster and belt, except where there was rust. There was a fillet of shoe polish, dust, and I assume potato chip crumbs, where the gun met the holster.  Another small one where the hammer merged with the frame. One had no functional sights as the rear notch was covered in I do not want to know. It was, as far as I could tell, glued in there and all but a one-piece unit. 

[ x ] Revolver, .38, with holster and gunbelt. Check. Armed security provided! 

Yes, the slide was milled and refinished.   The sight was fine, no issues.  In fact, the plate  might have been the source of the light rust.  Not going to pull it until the next battery change, will double check all then. 

Last edited by Community Member
High Exposure posted:
senorlechero posted:

What’s everyone using for an AIWB holster for a G17 with rmr? 

Tenicor. Totally Amazeballs.

Using both the Velo (I have 2) and a Sagax Lux (for a G19 w/ Holosun and a TLR7a).

Amazeballs? Tenicor is the official winner of the "where am I getting my next holster?" contest! 

I love the videos they put out as well, quality stuff. 

Thanks all, for the recommendations. 

What's everyone's stance on leather as an AIWB material?

senorlechero posted:

What's everyone's stance on leather as an AIWB material?

Me, I don't see the point.  I'm using a couple of AIWB JMCK rigs 90% of the time, then other assorted plastic (Safariland, Blade Tech, etc.), very happy with it all.

I can't remember the last time I carried in leather...

Plastic is:

Lighter, impervious to sweat, easier to clean, infinitely more adjustable (both for retention and mix match of clips, loops, wings, etc.)...

I feel like a rigid plastic rig lends itself better to being tucked, canted, or positioned the way I want, which to me is very important for AIWB.

And I've grown to like that "click" in or out you get with plastic.  Only ever experienced that in leather with a Kramer rig, years ago.

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