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I have had my precision rifle painted before, but:

  1. I have changed a bunch of stuff, and now it's a pretty stable configuration
  2. It is too dark. It was pretty up close, but sorta useless as camo. Unlike my carbines, I never loose my precision rifle  in the woods, which seems a bad sign. 
  3. I was a pussy 12 years ago when I last painted it, and only did the stocks. 

When originally painted: 

My driveway doesn't look that nice anymore. Now that I see it in comparison, I guess I need to save up for new driveway soon.

This is my most usual painting procedure, where I don't try to get a specific pattern, but just get A pattern to break up small and large. I won't bother showing the whole procedure, but I did document it so if you care:

  • Clean, clean and clean more. I use denatured alcohol and rags. 
  • Mask. I use entirely low-tack tapes (blue, green etc), have a cutting mat, a bunch of X-Actos and an art degree. I masked everything I wanted to see, but nothing mechanical except the muzzle. Everything else I just assumed I will paint not too thick so it won't get gummed up. 
  • Clean as you mask. If low-tack tape doesn't stick, it's not clean enough, so get the rags back out, let it dry until the tape sticks. 
  • Think about masking some more. I shot with some people this weekend who didn't remember which way their zoom went, and cannot look as they painted it. I masked off every witness mark, every note about what way to twist and how many MRAD per click, etc. Then I went away, came back an hour later, and looked for more to mask. 
  • Paint a base layer. I like to do a dark base, in broad stripes. Here, brown and OD. Mostly in Rapco for this, which covered in two thin layers.
  • Wait till dry, flip and carefully paint under, around, etc. Get full coverage. Here, I didn't repaint the bottom legs of the bipod, so had a cheat for this. 
  • Wait till dry, then wait an hour more, then I wrap whatever I want to get the pattern with. Sometimes, I do two pattern layers and a middle color, then the light color, but not today. This was camo net repair kit bits, and lots of twine to get more stripes of dark in it  and hold the net still.
  • Paint, rotate and paint, flip and paint. Slowly. Thin layers. 
  • Wait for it to dry. Then wait a couple more hours. Remove the camo net and string.
  • Find out what doesn't look good. I had a couple gaps with outstanding blocks of not-enough-pattern. Just lay down the net and paint whatever is needed. Here, I overpainted with dark colors mostly. It's not the same layers of paint, but looks the same. 
  • Wait, wait more. Remove tapes. I use the X-Acto to remove them so I am just picking the very edge of the tape, not scraping the paint job with a fingernail, etc.
  • I then popped the mag, and inverted it, and sprayed some lube up into the mechanism, but left it alone. After 3 days I pulled the bolt, lubed it and left it out. After a week (yesterday!) I shot it, but it will take a month before fully cured, so it is going to sit neatly after this until that is done. 


Some in progress shots. Shiny means I took the photo immediately, while paint is still wet:

Done and outside:

Now I want to redo the range card, but my eyes suck, I worry much darker (it is tan and green now) and I won't be able to read it. 

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Ah, my brain failed, was thinking you aren't painting the other stuff at all for some reason. I can see the fully painted rail making total sense, wish I had though of it before my painting. As the bolt rifle I posted above: I have now realized I set up wrong, pushed the scope forward for better eye relief last week and now there's a tiny bit of black rail. 

It's okay if I take my pills before I shoot it, though. 

C Walley posted:

How do you like the Vortex and what did you make the jump from?

I love it so far. Two range trips is hardly enough to make an opinion, but running through the house and dry firing with it impress me enough that I know I made the right decision.

It has a generous FOV and eye box up to 4x. Way more so than an ACOG. 6x is a little more strict with head placement, but again, not as bad as many optics I've used before. Glass is crisp, colors true to life, and no edge distortion than I can see.

I jumped from a T-2 with G33 magnifier. The weight difference isn't as bad as people make it out to be, which is the only thing I was worried about going in to this.

Loaded with 30rds of Fusion MSR in a PMAG, the above rifle is 10lbs 4oz.

FYI, for those who aren't active on BookFace, Stephen had a bit of a bike accident the other day and got pretty banged up, but is recovering. 

"I really debated posting this, but I did not want to run into one of my friends a week or a month or a year from now and have them say "why didn't you tell me?".

I was in a really bad crash on my bike this morning and got pretty banged up. 22 different fractures between ribs,spine, and clavicle. My doctors are telling me at this time they do not believe surgery will be required to repair any of the fractures. So that's lucky…

I was in a group ride with 20+ riders this morning and I was the lucky fellow that a dog chose to run out in front of out of nowhere. I did not even have time to touch my brakes. The impact snapped my top tube and downtube and launched me over the bars head over heels. I landed on the asphalt directly on my back. We were traveling about 22 mph. Every rib on the right side of my body has at least one fracture, half of my vertebrae have at least a fracture, and my clavicle is also broken.

Like I said, it does not appear I will need any surgery to repair the fractures is at this time. It will just take time to mend and recover. Thanks to all who have already reached out to me and I appreciate everyone keeping me in their thoughts."

XTCBX posted:

MG yea, 2 cell Fury’s on Arisaca mounts... I put one through a car side window breaching at a vehicle class last year, no damage at all. They are still an excellent choice even with all the other stuff that has come out since they’ve been around. Then one on my work gun has been issues. 

Gotcha. Care to share any more info (length, BCMs & BFG slings) on the uppers plus is one rocking a MP BUIS?

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Both are factory BCM uppers w original KMR (magnesium alloy) forends, the 11.5” is a hammer forged barrel (10” KMR over a Colt lower), the 14.5” is a ELW barrel (13” KMR over a BCM lower). Everything else is basically the same: SSA triggers, SF Warcomps (the shorty has my SF SOCOM silencer on it), Troy BUIS, T-1 2moa on LaRue 1/3 risers w IO covers, V-tac slings, I think they’re both BCM keymod QD sling mounts, BCM grips (front & back), some of the BCM rail covers / LaRue clips, and Vltor butt stocks. 

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Call me crazy, but the first thing that will probably get hit from the Book of Pat for me is likely to be my SR-25 from the group buy.  My other Geissele and BCM uppers (as well as my 416) already have FDE/Coyote/whatever rails and stocks. I don't know if I'm going to paint my Kiwi clone gun (just because it's a (mostly) clone gun.) I'm swapping the optic on that one because the ACOG with an RMR mounted is something I realized I was not a fan of after about 2 magazines.

MG in TX posted:

Default what glass & mount did you go with (NF?), are those the KAC BUIS's & what mounts did you use to get them @ 45ish?

 Confirming what everyone else has said, Magpul MBUS Pro Offset sights; I briefly considered the KAC offset sights, but didn't really see much point in paying that much money for something I wasn't going to use too often, and didn't seem to have much of an advantage (the only advantage I saw between my KAC Micros and normal MBUS Pros was the thinner front sight blade, but again, for back up sights, I wasn't too worried).

The mount is a Spuhr SP-4024 (which has a 1.89" height, which I assume was chosen because 48mm is a nice round number and close to 1.93"), and holds a Nightforce ATACR 1-8×24 F1. I was gonna take it out to the range to zero and get some DOPE, but alas, weather has prevented that, and it'll be awhile before I can get back out.

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