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So I did not see any recent posts on stippling in the past year or so, decided to put a new thread up in here- not quite studly but handy as heck nonetheless.  

Mods- if this is not cool to post let me know-

I've done some stippling the old school way with a fine point wood burner tip, making tiny holes and taking hours to stipple a gun, then one of my buddies (owner of PRP) showed me how to make a 'waffle tip' with a checker file.  Basically puts a bunch of little holes in at once.  Well, I love it. Stippled all my Glocks in no time.   I realized not everybody wants to spend 40 bucks on a checker file, then 15-20 minutes to make a custom tip... So, capitalist as I am, I figured there would be more guys thinking the way I was, and started producing them.  

For those who have stippled - you can see how this works, and how putting 1/4" of texture on a gun at a time can really speed up the process. Fine texture, or really heavy duty texture, either tip can be applied with the OTD Waffle Tip.

I run a deep 'combat grip' texture on most all my guns.  My carry G26 has light texture on the body side, up about .25" over the top and bottom, with the combat texture on the other half.  

When I first put the combat grip on and went to a Gunsite course right after, I did discover that there was some spots where my hands needed to get toughened up a bit. If a spot is particularly rough, you can take a pocket knife or some sandpaper of them and ease it up.  Big advantage of doing a heavy waffle pattern is that as it wears down (over a lot of use), the fine texture is underneath the heavy texture.

For those who haven't stippled - I am not going to try to convince you to start just to sell my product.  Google it, youtube it, figure out if it's something you want for yourself.  There are how-to videos all over youtube, and big boy rules apply since we are all responsible gun owners. If you don't feel confident in taking a 900* device to your plastic gun, it ain't for you.  That said it is not rocket science.

if your interested in the waffle tip:  here it is.

 OTD Waffle

 Comments, questions, concerns, bitches, complaints, feel free! 

Original Post

There are some gunsmiths out there that can do a stellar job for sure - Boresight and numerous others among them.  I came up with this because it's something I personally wanted.  I'm a cheap guy, and sending a gun off via overnight Fedex and then paying for a stipple/grip job just costs too dang much, especially 3+ guns later.  A dude with a dremel tool and a stippling kit can do a pretty decent looking job, and make it functional for themselves, which is my biggest thing. Function.

Also thinking that the commies running this (USA) joint may lock down on shipping firearms sooner then later, as the mighty pen stroke can dictate without recourse apparently.... Like the idea of having some tools out there that guys can use if they don't have a local grip guru.

The shop I work at has had one of the checker or "waffle" tips since about 2010 and it has always been my go to on glocks and sig. My favorite waffle tip finish is accomplished by lightly pressing in about .015'' and as you pull up simultaneously twist the tool. It will leave you with a finish like the one pictured below.  Also I purchased a kit and look forward to using it.


Images (1)
  • sig226: waffle stipple
Last edited by Community Member
Dan Easterday posted:

This looks promising.  Related, but off topic, does someone have a suggestion on a material to practice on before committing to a firearm?  I think I am going to get a full kit and start messing around.

I also practiced on a pmag and some old kydex holsters. I have only stippled 3 of my pistols so I'm not an expert but I have found getting the iron super hot makes the job a lot easier. You *have* to practice with the super hot iron before because you can screw sh*t up fast.

I've found that too hot is kind of annoying because it just burns too fast, but thats just me.  I like a 25 watt gun for the right balance, but have a buddy who uses a 40 watt.... another uses a 20 watt...

Pmags do alright for sure, the floor plates of a glock mag work well, the kydex I've messed with does not burn quite right.   Polymers vary a lot.   For example, my S&W bodyguard pocket pistol will not take a waffle pattern well - but I used a large round and am happy with the results, though it does not burn near as 'clean' for lack of a better term, as a Glock does.  Still need to get some more pictures up on the site of a variety of patterns/guns. 


Look forward to some feedback from you all.  Starting in about 1 week the Waffle tips will be in little plastic vials to keep them from bouncing around.

Threw up some videos finally on my site and youtube.  Just real quick demo's for those who may think it to be rocket science.   Stippling is not for everyone, but the chances of ruining your gun are pretty slim unless your low on brain cells, in which case maybe you should not own a gun either! That being said if you have guns for 'investment' purposes you may want a pro to do your grip work. If you have guns for 'work' purposes then DIY is not hard to get a really functional grip that looks pretty good.

Waffle Tip Demo

Large Round Tip Demo

micahSS posted:

New tip online-  a 16LPI waffle tip with 5/16" diameter.  Gonna be my personal go to tip I think, really good balance of aggressive grip and not eating your body depending  on how you wear it.  Pronghorn tip coming in a few weeks.


Question for you guys:  where do you buy your gunsmithing parts from?  Ebay? Amazon? Brownells?

Got one of your 20LPI tips on the way.  Got any photos up of the 16LPI texture?

Went with the full stipple kit and used the 16LPI tip.


Entire pistol was done in less than a half hour (minus the prep work with a Dremel), and the texture is extremely aggressive. It will not slip loose while shooting and makes shooting in the Georgia humidity a breeze.

The OTD kit is very high quality, and dead simple to do. Plan to hit my CCW with the 20LPI next.

*EDIT: Pic should work now.

Last edited by Community Member

After many of you asking for it,  I now have a 'square' tip.  Its actually a rectangle with an angle on the top, but will fill the void that a lot of guys have been wanting.  Makes straight lines easier then a round tip, and really shines in making a perfect 90* corner.

First ten guys can use " LF2KILL " for 2 bucks off the new tip.

Feedback always appreciated!

Honestly it is pretty challenging to not leave any trace of the shape of the tip, whether round or otherwise.  Some of the best stipple jobs (home done and professionally) you can see faint outlines of the tip used. 

I generally will go over it all then if I see some spots that are really obvious, will come back over them with a lighter touch to fade the line out. I have not done it yet, but one could also use the finish tip and the round waffle and have 2 separate patterns to mix it up a bit.

If it is that concerning, I would say your best bet is to use the single point method, and prepare yourself for a long day.

I took an appropriate sized phillips screw (IIRC a 10/24) and a triangular file and made each "pad" (section of the screw head) a different size and shape and then randomly rotated the soldering iron as I pressed it against the polymer. After I amdone it has a overly agressive texture but I take a 120grit sanding sponge and knock down the sharp edges and it ends up with a grippy surface that looks like velvet  for lack of a better term. I have a Gen 4 G19 I need to do so I will post up some pics and if I can get my 12yr old to show me how even a video.

but i have to get my honey do list whittled down first.

I recently took the plunge and textured three of my 1.0 M&Ps.  A long slide Pro series, an M&P45 and an M&P22.  Don't be afraid to take the plunge guys.  I used a wood burning kit and a sharp pointed tip.  I was light to medium pressure and did the .45 first.  And by first, I mean the very first gun I did.  The texture was ok, much better than stock, good grip, not nearly as aggressive as the 2.0 guns.  Next the Pro-series and I was a bit more aggressive with it and got it closer to 2.0, but still not as aggressive.  Just where I wanted it.  Finally, I did the .22.  The plastic/polymer is harder than the regular guns and the result, using the same technique, was 2.0 style texture, i.e. pretty sharp.   

The 2.0 texturing is pretty aggressive.  In some ways/instances, some will consider it too aggressive.  Over time, it will wear down a little.  If it is too much, some light and careful sanding will reduce the sharpness.  I don't know if S&W molds the frame with the texturing, or if they mold it smooth and then press the  texture in with a fixture.  If I had to guess, I think the latter as otherwise it might be too difficult to release them from the molds.  Anyway, I've had to trim some sharp edges or points.  On the compact for example, the border around the rectangular M&P logo was noticeably sharp and I had to smooth it up.  

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